Suit Supply

For seemingly decades, the conversation pertaining to a gentleman’s style, in regards to sexuality and masculinity, has always been a topic subject to much speculation and conjecture. In the contemporary world, the progressively blurred sartorial lines within the realm of men’s style has produced an ambiguity between femininity and masculinity that confounds many and drives trepidation. An ambitious gentleman who strives to dress elegantly will almost always bear the distinction of being too affected or ostentatious. For a brief moment, society was so confused by the return of the well-dressed gentleman, a cute label was christened to identify him – the metro-sexual. Frankly, I think that is one of the silliest monikers ever invented. So, what is all of this rambling for anyway? Well, an interesting picture danced across my Facebook timeline yesterday. It was a photograph of a dapper gentleman of color; holding what appeared to be a hybrid of a book bag and satchel, it arrived with a caption: Man purse – yes or no for your man?

Honestly, in my humble opinion, it didn’t look like a purse. However, I think the term “man purse” prejudiced the viewer to think of it as such. Without the caption, I think people would surmise the guy was just carrying a small duffel bag. The responses were overwhelming decisive – the look was too feminine for guy, leave the small bags for women. And so, I searched the Internet for similar bags for a reference point. I came across a cadre of bags offered by Suit Supply – they really have some sweet bags in stock – and amongst the group were a few selections referenced as portfolio bags. In an age when a gentleman is inundated with small gadgets and accessories, is it a stretch to understand why he may require a small bag to house his belongings, without calling into question his sexuality? Or, is this one of those cases where fashion is straddling the line between being a man and being effeminate? Your thoughts?

Alexander Olch

Please gentlemen, do not be mistaken, this isn’t your great grandfather’s plaid. Embarrassingly fusty. Slightly stodgy. Obliviously dated. No, this contemporary rendition is different in every facet imaginable. To be certain, gone are the days of grumpy and grouchy checks, and in its place we have at our disposal something brazenly hip, something resolutely ballsy. Trust, the tradition remains intact, but do not confuse tradition with antiquity. Today’s plaid does not break from tradition, it merely turns up the volume. The intersections of vertical and horizontal lines are more adventurous; blazing a path of varying widths and lengths. The color choices are plentiful and unconventional; anything from eggplant purple to forest green is confidently on the table. And the instruments for which a gentleman can demonstrate his sartorial expertise: sport coats, neckties, pocket squares, dress shirts, etc. Again, any and everything is on the table. This autumn, the department stores are stocked to capacity with plaid offerings. So, a gentleman might as well dismiss his visions of those nightmarish plaids from yesteryear, and instead select at least one bold plaid furnishing to add to his inventory. It could be as subtle as a pocket square. Or, it could be as showy as a sport coat. Either way, the most ubiquitous pattern this autumn begs for spot in your closet.

Have you ever wondered how a delicate piece of sumptuous fabric is transformed into an exquisite slice of luxury that is the custom-made necktie? Not really, but now your interest has been aroused? Well, be sure to keep a watchful eye for an upcoming conversation I had with founder of Passaggio Cravatte, Gianni Cerutti. Passaggio Cravatte is unique because they don’t stock ready-made product; everything is hand-made and individually conceived. Neckties. Pocket squares. Ascots. Bow ties. The choice is ultimately in your hands. Well, technically, your choice rests within Mr. Cerutti’s hands as he crafts your selection from scratch. Stay tuned.

http://www.passaggiocravatte.com/

Granted, I could be totally and utterly wrong with this observation, but the direct translation of runway fashion to everyday, wearable style isn’t as clean and fluent as some may lead you to believe. At best, an average gentleman’s runway interpretation can be viewed as forward-thinking and eclectic. At worst, an average gentleman’s interpretation can be viewed as atrociously affected and forced. In the case of Mr. Wade, his Versace selection of a printed floral leather jacket for his post-game news conference attire leans heavily towards forced – painfully forced in fact. Look, the problem isn’t the floral pattern, nor is it the white leather jacket, rather, it’s the marriage of both in a setting that is miles away from a runway fashion show in Milan. In all of its pretentious glory, it is the classic example of the peacock, confidently frolicking in an unnatural habitat, which happens to be said news conference, post-game in front of reporters. Given the peacockish exploits of Russell Westbrook, I would suppose this scene isn’t too unfamiliar. Nevertheless, in my humble opinion, garish runway fashion is meant to inspire and highlight certain trends in style. Looking at Wade’s jacket, perhaps, I would be inspired to incorporate a floral motif into my pocket square, necktie, or even sport shirt. But, that is as far as I can take it. A white floral leather jacket, and late at night no less? I’ll pass. So, D Wade’s leather bouquet – thumbs up or thumbs down?

With respect to a gentleman’s necktie, quiet is definitely the preferred pattern of choice. Quiet being an unassuming pattern that doesn’t detract from the elegant entirety of a gentleman’s ensemble. However, a gentleman should not hastily furrow his brow at the thought of turning up the volume, if only ever so slightly, on a few selected neckties. And no time is better than the present, as plaid is definitely hot right now. Truthfully, plaid remains a perennial classic no matter what the year, but there appears to be a focused attention towards this vibrant pattern – much more than usual. Given the season, cotton and silk options are plentiful. Investing in a few would certainly be a wise decision, as plaid would most likely never drift out of style. Now, the hard part: How does a gentleman begin to incorporate such a bold pattern into his presentation? True, it can be tricky. Nevertheless, it can be accomplished. No worries, I’m currently working on a quick and dirty guide to mastering the art of rocking the plaid necktie with confidence and style. Stay tuned.