There is nothing contained in a gentleman’s presentation that should elicit the same level of deference that a well-polished shoe should elicit. Seriously – nothing at all. And the explanation is really quite simple: There isn’t another element in a gentleman’s dress that requires the same labor and attention that a high-gloss, mirror-shine pair of oxfords demands. Trust, a gentleman needs to apply a little elbow grease to achieve the necessary glassy effect. And I would be remiss not to mention the meticulous diligence toward step by step details. Still not convinced? Take a look at this video produced by Mr Porter featuring shoe aficionado Justin FitzPatrick. After you appreciate the work, take yourself over to Mr. FitzPatrick’s blog THE SHOE SNOB for further shoe admiration. You won’t regret it.
Author Archives: Glen Antoine Palmer
Style & Substance – The Lapel Flower
For the distinguished gentleman, the past few years in style have been quite fascinating. For what seemed like an eternity, a gentleman’s options in the sartorial arena were largely ignored, or simply forgotten altogether. Smart, stylish selections were scant in local department stores. Knowledge was segregated within privileged circles of the few. If an average gentleman so desired to step his dress game up, he would definitely be challenged in meeting that objective.
However, recently, the Internet has granted the widespread sharing of such sacred knowledge. And a gentleman no longer has to scour department store after department store in search of a discreet piece of elegance. Yes, the Internet has also given rise not only to online versions of popular upscale stores, but the independently owned small business is seeing some shine as well. Which brings me to hook + ALBERT and the aforementioned discreet piece of elegance.
It was not that long ago that many gentlemen took to inserting a colorful silk knot in the buttonhole on their lapel jacket. And then what followed was a contemporary take on the classic floral boutonniere. Instead of adorning your lapel with a fresh floral offering, such as a carnation, a gentleman could choose from a variety of crocheted cotton or wool replicas. I have been studying this look for awhile now; debating on whether or not the look would complement my personality.
Every gentleman’s style should coincide with own character. And so, I have chosen to give it a shot. Some may dismiss these small bundles of fashion as trendy. They may be right. Who knows how long they will be popular. Nevertheless, I think they provide a quiet injection of well-appointed grace. Nothing too ornate, but visible enough to elicit approving admiration. I’ll be ordering a pair in the weeks to come. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Black Thought
“Have you grown to the point where you can unflinchingly stand up for the right, for that which is honorable, honest, truthful, whether it makes you popular or unpopular? Have you grown to the point where absolutely and unreservedly you make truth and honor your standard of thinking and speaking?”
Booker T. Washington
Sometimes, a gentleman must utilize the power of his voice to tell individuals what they need you hear, and not necessarily what they want to hear. Trust, there exists a sharp contrast between the two. And sometimes, he must make a stand for what he believes is right and true. In some cases, truth brings an unmistakable pain of reality, often a reality that many people resist or ignore. And truth can sometimes be a nasty medicine that is seemingly unbearable to digest. Nevertheless, a gentleman would be doing a terrible disservice by masking truth with pleasant, comfortable falsehoods. A gentleman must be a credible source of wise counsel. He bears the responsibility of imparting wisdom and providing useful knowledge. True, some spoken truths will certainly bring unpopularity. Standing steadfast by one’s moral convictions won’t be deemed as popular either. But this isn’t a popularity contest. This is about delivering a righteous word. This is about standing for substance of a higher standard – no matter what resistance you might encounter. Don’t waver. Stand tall. Stand confident. Speak truth. Make a difference.
Cheap Thrills – Boldly Accessorize At A Low Cost
The Tie Bar
Gentlemen – rejoice! Currently, we are enthusiastically enjoying a sartorial renaissance of sorts. Pleasantly inundated with a bevy of stylish options, a gentleman can attire himself in a handsome array of clothing, and he doesn’t have to break the bank in doing so. Sure, dressing great can become expensive if a gentleman allows it. And true, there are some items a gentleman cannot maneuver around without dropping some heavy coin. Nevertheless, there exists pathway to smart elegance that doesn’t include high price-tags. Deft utilization of sharp accessories can make an outfit look right-on-the-money without spending a tremendous amount of it. Here, you will find a collection upstart companies that offer insanely inexpensive, superbly stylish accouterments that can definitely elevate a gentleman’s fashion quotient without stressing your pocketbook. Continue reading
Gent Hints – The Double-Breasted Suit Jacket
Denzel Washington – GQ – Nathaniel Goldberg
This past Saturday, I had the distinct honor of speaking and presenting at the 2012 Man of Style & Scholarship Weekend Conference, which was held at Marygrove College here in Detroit, Michigan. Speaking to a group of young African-American students; my presentation focused on image, dress, self-esteem, and behavior. After the conference was finished, a few young men stayed afterwards to pose a few questions. One question that stuck out pertained to the double-breasted suit jacket. Now, this young gentleman was all of 17 or 18 years old. And I understand that style is all a matter of taste. But, if there is one particular item in a gentleman’s closet that screams age appropriate, the double-breasted suit jacket would be it. When executed properly, the resulting presentation can be incredible. If there is a crucial misstep, one could be viewed as a pretender. Look, double-breasted jackets can be hard to pull off. A gentleman runs the risk of trying to look older when he really isn’t, or trying to convey power when he has none. Nevertheless, if you have the power and confidence required for such a task, go right ahead young Jedi. Just make sure you keep these tips in mind.
- Double-breasted jackets are meant to have a dynamic fit throughout the mid-section, extra material will only make you look boxy and frumpy.
- Button options: contemporary tastes favor 4 or 6 buttons. If you are wearing a 4 button, fasten the top right button; or button the middle right button if you are rocking a 6 button jacket.
- And speaking of buttons, keep the darn thing buttoned! It’s not designed to wear open. You diminish its swagger if you do.
- But, if you must, open it up from time to time for a rakish, casual flair.
- A dark jacket is always classic for business occasions, while lighter alternates move into more casual waters.
- And if you are venturing into casual waters, don’t be afraid to pair your double-breasted with a pair of dark jeans. Now, that’s a gutsy move right there!
- Watch the peak lapels, the tip of your lapels should approximately reach the middle region of your shoulders.
- A double-breasted jacket is a bold statement enough, so don’t get too wild with the patterns. Keep the scale subtle and discreet.
- Investing in a skilled tailor is a given, and this fact is double underscored if a gentleman packs a little something extra in his mid-section. Buttons may have a gentle tug when fastened, but they should not be over-stressed to the point of popping loose.
- For the gentleman that is short of stature, the tail of his suit jacket should hit just below his rear. A longer suit jacket will only accentuate his modest height – not exactly what you want.
UPTOWN Gentleman: The Wool Pocket Square
Devout creatures of habit and ardent practitioners of unvarying routines, some gentlemen demonstrate a certain predilection towards sartorial monotony. In other words, they gradually gravitate towards what is fashionably comfortable and they never depart from that orbit. And nothing symbolizes comfortable, safe certainty than cotton. Residing amongst all of his personal furnishings, cotton rules because cotton is king. Cotton shirts. Cotton pants. Cotton socks. However, there are moments when a gentleman should be encouraged to pivot towards other fabric choices. And let us not take the easy way out by turning focused attention to our trusty wool coat; that should be a given heading into the chillier part of the year. But, we are on the right track here. Wool is great, so let’s apply it to an accessory that is usually cotton – the pocket square. Here are six pocket square selections to glean inspiration. Enjoy.
Wool pocket squares have been a favorite of mine for quite some time now. I actually own the pocket square pictured above. Seriously, you should join the club. Check out my online post for UPTOWN Magazine and see why. Oh, yes, that can be found HERE.
Standard Recommendations – The Merona Knit Cap
I have always been cautious of discount retail chains, such as Wal-Mart and Target, that have aggressively entered the market of selling serious clothing merchandise. Beyond the standard collection of tee shirts, underwear, and socks; it feels slightly strange retrieving a gallon of milk from aisle 16 and then selecting a merino sweater from aisle 12. Prejudiced by the simple reality of kitty litter being a few feet away, I always suspected that the clothing sold was cheap. And not cheap as in price, but cheap as in cheaply constructed. One spin in the washing machine would surely send your sport shirt to a premature state of fraying and tearing.
Nevertheless, I have heard whispers that clothing from stores such as Target was actually good. In a concerted effort to offer quality products at an affordable price, Target has teamed up with various big time designers to offer such selections, as well as offering their own house brands. So, that brings me to one such brand – Merona. In search of a good cold weather cap, the thought of slapping down $50 to $70 for a cap wasn’t too thrilling. And so, I found myself in Target doing some light shopping when I spied the Merona knit cap. Now, for approximately $3.99, the risk was minimal and the reward would be tremendous if it performed its duties.
Offered up in a myriad of colors, I promptly grabbed a black, charcoal gray, and green knit cap. It’s not 100% wool though. It’s actually a blend of predominantly acrylic and some spandex for stretch. That didn’t matter. My only concern was would it keep my bald head warm. And it does. The fit is comfortable. It doesn’t lose its shape. And it keeps the dome nice and toasty. For $3.99 a pop, a gentleman can’t beat that. Sure, it’s not wool or cashmere, but I’m not trying to win on style points here. Not when arctic blasts are threatening to take off my ear lobes. Thus, the Merona knit cap passes the test. With the colors offered, it’s a great way to accessorize your look with a little color, stay warm, and do it on the cheap. This cap is a winner. And I’ll probably be back at Target to pick up a few more. There’s an orange one with my name on it.
Style & Substance – The Field Vest
Big Sean – GQ – Tom Schirmacher
Okay, first, allow me to address the obvious: Big Sean isn’t “big” at all. If I were a betting gentleman, I would wager that Big Sean weighs somewhere in the universe of 150 to 170 pounds. I could be incorrect. Nonetheless, the fact remains unchanged – Big Sean is a gentleman with a slender frame. And thus, I find this month’s endorsement by GQ mildly amusing. In a pictorial showcasing down field vests, Big Sean is modeled with the aforementioned vest layered comfortably under his sport coat. Apologies, but for an average gentleman with a modest amount of weight on his frame, this look is preposterous. I understand what GQ is trying to achieve here, but if “Big” Glen tries to squeeze a down vest under his sport coat, he would probably suffer two collapsed lungs from the subsequent pressure being applied. My advice: forgo the business jacket and secure yourself a toasty hat and pair of gloves to keep warm. Better yet, how about wearing, say, a regular cold weather coat over your ensemble? Because, cramming yourself into a blazer or sport coat for the sake of layering, can be really distressing. And when it’s cold outside, we have better things to worry about than shifting around uncomfortably in our gear. What say the audience?
Welcome To The New Gentlemen’s Standard
And we’re open for business. Welcome to the brand new, streamlined Gentlemen’s Standard. The move was tough, but necessary. I had outgrown Blogger and needed a change. Thus, I decided to make the move to WordPress. It has been a long time coming. Trying to keep up with regular blogging, working my regular job, and working this site was very time-consuming. But, I am pleased with the work. There is so much more to come, as I still have tons of content to add. I just ask for your patience, and I hope you are happy with the new site as well. Check out the new sections, as I have attempted to streamline some of the more popular content from my old site. So, tell a friend, we’re back to blogging – and we’re new and improved!
Style & Substance – The Checked Shirt
Brooks Brothers – Black Fleece
So, I took a brief excursion out to the Off Fifth Saks outlet at Great Lakes Crossing Sunday morning. In dire need of a new winter cap, I armed myself with a 30 percent off coupon, hoping that I would score a great deal. Well, I did score a great deal, but it was not for the hat that I was in search of. Nevertheless, I got a great Michael Kors heavy woolen field coat for only $120.00 – discounted from $400.00! More on that in a future post. Today, I wanted to share an observation. It looks like the trend for shirts this season is leaning heavily towards checked patterns. Seriously, there were checks everywhere. And not just any check, we are talking big, boisterous cotton checkerboard offerings. The patterns were certainly pronounced, but they weren’t visually obnoxious to the point of inducing nausea. It’s funny, stripes were were all the rage a few years ago. But I digress; maintaining a modicum of shopping discipline (I did, however, snatch some hosiery while I was there), I departed the store empty-handed – save for the aforementioned coat and socks. Nevertheless, I think I will buy a shirt or two with a bold check if I am at Kohls or JC Penney – no need to break the bank on sport shirts, that’s just a personal rule of mine. So, how about you – pass or grab?
Brotherly Love – British Style
Gent Hints – The Watch Battery
Timex
I readily admit my shameful guilt for the following offense: leaving a dead battery inside one’s timepiece. Be it negligent forgetfulness and inexcusable sloth; abandoning your timepiece with its deceased life source inside can be risky, and perhaps expensive, business. In the deep, far crevices of my mind, I knew this fact. And yet, I continued with my neglect until certain circumstances necessitated the need for usage. I had long fallen into the nasty habit of simply retrieving my cell phone for time consultation. However, now I needed, for appearances, to have a watch on my wrist. So, I visited my neighborhood watch store to replace the battery. Side note: always go to a certified watch store. In my early days, I went to, I think, Target to replace the watch battery. And as I watched in terror, customer service began to fumble and pound on the underside of the watch, futilely attempting to open the casing. I vowed – never again.
Anyway, as I strolled into the store, there was another gentleman at the counter who was also guilty of leaving a dead battery inside his watch. Overhearing the conversation, I listened to customer service tell him that the battery was corroded and had leaked inside the watch – it was destroyed. Nervously, I watched as my salesperson disappeared into the back to change out my battery. Would she return with the same diagnosis? Sure, the watch was inexpensive, but that wasn’t the point. My careless procrastination could cost me a perfectly good watch nonetheless. Alas, she returned with a healthy, ticking watch – with instructions to return in a year or so when it is time for a change. I’ll be there like clockwork.
Brotherly Love – David Oyelowo
David Oyelowo – GQ – David Burton
Black Thought
“Success is to be measured not so much by the position that one has reached in life as by the obstacles which he has overcome.”
-Booker T. Washington
Sure, it would be easy enough to become enamored by the seemingly authoritative, accomplished status of a wildly successful individual. The mere presence of seductive visuals such as expensive status symbols have tremendous influence as they elicit, sometimes, misguided deference from the admirer. However, I challenge the reader to momentarily ignore such material objects. Instead, please divert your attention to the process that granted such accomplishment possible. What did that individual experience during their journey to success? Trust this: The strength of a gentleman’s character is forged on the anvil of adversity. Through weathering distress or difficulty, prosperity is procured by he who believes a challenge is an opportunity. An opportunity to steel your will and seize achievement despite any obstacles you might encounter. Don’t be impressed by person’s materialistic results. Those are nice and fine to look at. Nevertheless, be more impressed with the vanquished adversity that withered in the face of impending success. And then go forth and forge your own.
Gent Hints – The Necktie Dimple
Phineas Cole
I completely understand that all gentlemen may not favor a sharply creased dimple residing in the middle of their necktie. Every gentleman has his own unique signature style. And of course a beautiful necktie will remain a beautiful necktie-regardless of whether or not a gentleman decides to embrace the finishing touch of a dimple. Nevertheless, I remain a staunch proponent of utilizing this perfectly placed cleft because I believe in the nuanced details that make a man well-dressed. Now, I know I have probably tackled this subject before, but at the behest of my father-in-law, I have decided to cover the topic once again. So, just how does a gent execute a distinctive dimple cascading down from a taut knot? Well, there are a few key factors that a gentleman should take into careful consideration.
First, your necktie’s fabric must be resilient and robust-nothing lightweight or flimsy. I am not suggesting that your necktie be excessively heavy. What I am suggesting is the material be sturdy enough to hold a crease. If your necktie cannot hold a secure knot; chances are it won’t hold a deep dimple. Second, you simply cannot expedite the knotting process. You just cannot hurry style. Allow yourself enough time to properly knot your necktie. Third, your technique has to be excellent. After you have formed your knot and you are beginning to pull the long end through the loop…stop there! Most men just pull the tie through haphazardly and tighten the knot. This is what you should be doing: As you pull down on the necktie to tighten; do so with your pointer fingers and thumbs. As you are pulling, you want to secure the sides of your necktie (with both pointers & thumbs) and fold the fabric slightly forward, thus making a small crevice in the material.
Wait, you are not done. Your necktie should be relatively loose around your collar. The key is to form your knot and dimple before you fully tighten your necktie around your neck. Carefully begin to shape your knot and dimple. The best way to achieve this is through the process of tightening & loosening your necktie until it is formed to your satisfaction. Give your knot a slight pinch to accentuate the dimple and you are good to go. The whole process sounds a bit meticulous, but it really does not take long once you have done it a few times. And once you have done it, it is like learning to ride a bicycle-you will never forget. Maybe in the future, I can take it to another level and actually shoot a demonstration video. Until then, I am available for house calls if you require further instructions. Just kidding.
The Gentlemen's Standard 