Gent Hints – Sport Coat Coordination

PS- Autumn 2012

Phineas Cole

To be sure, some gentlemen absolutely abhor the notion of wearing a suit, as they would sooner employ a sport coat as a viable alternative. So, when an occasion begs for a discreet level of business attire, said gentleman promptly retrieves his sport jacket of choice from the closet. Pretty simply – right? Well, not quite that simple. The sly substitution of a sport coat arrives with a curious dilemma of its own. Unlike the complete business suit, the sport coat quietly resides, draped around its wooden hanger without the devoted companionship of a matching trouser. Thus, the critical mission of expertly coordinating a pair of trousers becomes not as simple as previously imagined – that suit doesn’t look so terrible now. No worries, may we present to the audience, a quick and dirty guide to find the right pair of trousers for your sport coat. Continue reading

Gent Hints – Sport Coat & Trouser Coordination

Phineas Cole Green Sport JacketTo be sure, some gentlemen absolutely abhor the notion of wearing a suit, as they would sooner employ a sport coat as a viable alternative. So, when an occasion begs for a discreet level of business attire, said gentleman promptly retrieves his sport jacket of choice from the closet. Pretty simply – right? Well, not quite that simple. The sly substitution of a sport coat arrives with a curious dilemma of its own. Unlike the complete business suit, the sport coat quietly resides, draped around its wooden hanger without the devoted companionship of a matching trouser. Thus, the critical mission of expertly coordinating a pair of trousers becomes not as simple as previously imagined – that suit doesn’t look so terrible now. No worries, may we present to the audience, a quick and dirty guide to find the right pair of trousers for your sport coat.

  • A few years ago, popping one’s collar on a polo top was quite the popular trend amongst preppy circles. And now, you have probably noticed that trend has migrated to the sport coat. Well, that popped collar actually yields a subtle hint regarding the color of your trousers. The collar of your jacket is lined (well, it should be lined) with fabric that should provide a nice color contrast. Take note of this color when searching for trousers.
  • Likewise, the lining of the sport jacket itself may offer clues as to what hue your trouser should be imbued with; so open it up for dutiful inspection and match your pants accordingly.
  • And don’t forget to take a look at the buttons; they also have the tendency of being fastened in a coordinating color that can be quite suitable for your bottoms.
  • If you’re lucky, perhaps your sport coat is embellished with a colored pattern, and said colored pattern can be smartly synchronized with the color of your trousers.
  • Or, a gentleman may opt for a monochromatic presentation. For example, a navy sport coat can be paired with a lighter shade of blue. Not that adventurous, but sartorially correct nonetheless.
  • When in doubt, a solid colored pair of trousers is the best option to select. And combining two different patterns, meaning a checked sport coat and striped pants, that is a big NO. Of the two elements involved, being your jacket and pants, one should be solid and the other patterned – if you so choose to introduce pattern into the equation. This rule can be ignored if your name is Russell Westbrook.
  • Take notice of the fabric. An autumn corduroy sport coat paired with summer linen pants is just wrong. Stick with fabrics that are appropriate to each season. For example, a cotton sport jacket wisely matched with linen trousers. Or, a corduroy jacket married to a pair of fabulous flannel bottoms. Boom!
  • And when all else fails – ask your wife or girlfriend. Trust, her coordination skills just may be better than yours.

Style & Substance – The Tweed Suit

GQ – Dwyane Wade – Will Welch

To be perfectly honest, I am still not a supporter of the whole relaxed, whimsical presentation of a loosely knotted necktie. If you are going through the entire knotting exercise, a gentleman should just complete the look and tighten it up. That is just my humble opinion. But that is neither here or there, today we are looking at the tweed suit, executed properly here by Dwyane Wade. Forgetting that Mr. Wade plays for the loathsome Miami Heat, the man knows how to dress, or at least he hires the proper staff to dress him. Here, his suit is perfectly contoured to his proportions-nothing excessively slim; just appropriately tailored for his stature. And a quick note to gentlemen who still rock the six button suits: Wade stands 6 foot 4, but he opts here to sport a two button suit-and it looks fantastic! Keep that in mind. Tweed jackets have enjoyed a history of being bulky and itchy, but contemporary versions have reduced the mass and refined the fabric. The result: a definite winner for the winter season. And the v-neck sweater and newsboy cap? That’s a nice touch too. Just tighten that necktie!

Style & Substance – The Field Vest

Big Sean – GQ – Tom Schirmacher

Okay, first, allow me to address the obvious: Big Sean isn’t “big” at all. If I were a betting gentleman, I would wager that Big Sean weighs somewhere in the universe of 150 to 170 pounds. I could be incorrect. Nonetheless, the fact remains unchanged – Big Sean is a gentleman with a slender frame. And thus, I find this month’s endorsement by GQ mildly amusing. In a pictorial showcasing down field vests, Big Sean is modeled with the aforementioned vest layered comfortably under his sport coat. Apologies, but for an average gentleman with a modest amount of weight on his frame, this look is preposterous. I understand what GQ is trying to achieve here, but if “Big” Glen tries to squeeze a down vest under his sport coat, he would probably suffer two collapsed lungs from the subsequent pressure being applied. My advice: forgo the business jacket and secure yourself a toasty hat and pair of gloves to keep warm. Better yet, how about wearing, say, a regular cold weather coat over your ensemble? Because, cramming yourself into a blazer or sport coat for the sake of layering, can be really distressing. And when it’s cold outside, we have better things to worry about than shifting around uncomfortably in our gear. What say the audience?

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