UPTOWN Gentleman: The Need For Tweed

The historical narrative of tweed states that the name itself is an ironic corruption of the word twill. Perhaps due to bad handwriting on a merchant order combined with the immediate proximity of the river Tweed in Scotland, the term tweed gained popularity and has been around centuries later. Now, that slice of history is interesting, but today’s gentleman is more concerned about style and functionality. Autumn begs for clothing that offers depth and character. The rough, woolen fabric offers much-needed protection from the cold and wind. Originally purposed for weekend forays into the wilderness, today’s tweed can be found everywhere from neckties to loafers. Here are a few items that should be found in your closet…

Trust me, during this time of the season, tweed should be making its way into your closet – if it’s not there already. Why? Well, besides keeping you warm under the duress of falling temperatures, it just looks so damn masculine and rich. And not rich as in money; rich as in it affords incredible depth and stylish intricacy to your look. Apologies – I’m babbling. Check out the remainder after the above introduction at the usual spot over at UPTOWN MAGAZINE. Boom!

Style & Substance – The Wool Necktie

Stylishly inconspicuous. Fashionably unobtrusive. Quietly entering the room, its presence is announced by its reserved elegance. Sometimes in a gentleman’s life, he is required to exude a sober & restrained presentation. The solid wool necktie is there for his assistance. Set against the background of an immaculate white dress shirt, the gentleman displays great grace and aplomb in his excellent execution of elegance. And given the eventual transition into autumn and winter, neckties arriving in wool are an intelligent choice. Wool provides some serious visual depth to the usual dress shirt & necktie combination. Don’t worry about any difficulty knotting your necktie either. Given wool has exceptional resilience, knotting a perfect four-in-hand is quite easy. And the fabric returns to its original shape just fine. Opt for dark hues such as navy, brown, or gray. Pair with a fine merino sweater or tweed sport coat for a discreetly handsome ensemble. Every gentleman’s closet should maintain a few in circulation. You won’t be sorry.

Thinking About – The GOP

The sloppy handling of the of the Auto Bailout, for which he never stated, “Let Detroit go bankrupt.” Maybe it was the less than eloquent description of 47 percent of the population. Perhaps it was Hurricane Sandy and her momentum halting influence? And surely the healthy helping of adoration Chris Christie heaped on President Obama didn’t help matters.  All factors spelled possible defeat for Governor Mitt Romney. Nevertheless, there was but one path to 270 electoral votes for the Romney Campaign. However, that would mean betraying and departing from a far right, radical ideology that had previously positioned Mitt at the coveted big dance – the 2012 Presidential Election. Alas, his pivot towards middle was perhaps too late, and his positions during the Republican Primaries rendered him defenseless against an expanding electorate. He had been handcuffed to an ideology that has his party on the cusp of political impotence. The electorate expanded – more Latino voters and more young voters. Plus – more women in the Obama column. And the Republican given, white male voters, had shrunk. So, going forward, where does the Republican party go from here? With a fiscal cliff looming, we shall soon see.

The Standard #18

Firmly standing upright under an unrelenting, blistering storm of vitriolic contempt and caustic distrust, the successful gentleman remains undeterred in his journey towards triumph. Triumph – born of an unwavering resolve and complete assurance in his abilities; this gentleman cannot be denied what he has tirelessly striven for. And despite ardent attempts to trivialize his work, undermine his legitimacy, or boldly question his intellect; ignorance and hatred will be trumped every time. Believe it. No amount of mockery can shake his confidence. He is resolute. He is intelligent. He is courageous. More importantly, he recognizes that there exists individuals consumed with hubris and guided by conceit, which ultimately hastens their downfall. So, he stays in his lane and does what he does best – win. Are you a winner?

Vote!

And so, it all comes down to this. President Barack Obama. Mitt Romney. Two gentlemen enter and only one leaves with the crown. My guess is we won’t know the eventual winner until the late p.m.; perhaps around 11 o’clock. Watch closely for results from Ohio and Florida. If Romney wins Florida, it could be a long night. If Obama takes Ohio, Romney will most likely have to run the table of swing states (Wisconsin, Iowa, Nevada, New Hampshire, etc.) to block the president from 270 electoral votes. Should be interesting. Stay tuned. And more importantly – VOTE!!

Mr Porter – Mr Justin FitzPatrick – Art of the Shoe Shine

There is nothing contained in a gentleman’s presentation that should elicit the same level of deference that a well-polished shoe should elicit. Seriously – nothing at all. And the explanation is really quite simple: There isn’t another element in a gentleman’s dress that requires the same labor and attention that a high-gloss, mirror-shine pair of oxfords demands. Trust, a gentleman needs to apply a little elbow grease to achieve the necessary glassy effect. And I would be remiss not to mention the meticulous diligence toward step by step details. Still not convinced? Take a look at this video produced by Mr Porter featuring shoe aficionado Justin FitzPatrick. After you appreciate the work, take yourself over to Mr. FitzPatrick’s blog THE SHOE SNOB for further shoe admiration. You won’t regret it.

Style & Substance – The Lapel Flower

For the distinguished gentleman, the past few years in style have been quite fascinating. For what seemed like an eternity, a gentleman’s options in the sartorial arena were largely ignored, or simply forgotten altogether. Smart, stylish selections were scant in local department stores. Knowledge was segregated within privileged circles of the few. If an average gentleman so desired to step his dress game up, he would definitely be challenged in meeting that objective.

However, recently, the Internet has granted the widespread sharing of such sacred knowledge. And a gentleman no longer has to scour department store after department store in search of a discreet piece of elegance. Yes, the Internet has also given rise not only to online versions of popular upscale stores, but the independently owned small business is seeing some shine as well. Which brings me to hook + ALBERT and the aforementioned discreet piece of elegance.

It was not that long ago that many gentlemen took to inserting a colorful silk knot in the buttonhole on their lapel jacket. And then what followed was a contemporary take on the classic floral boutonniere. Instead of adorning your lapel with a fresh floral offering, such as a carnation, a gentleman could choose from a variety of crocheted cotton or wool replicas. I have been studying this look for awhile now; debating on whether or not the look would complement my personality.

Every gentleman’s style should coincide with own character. And so, I have chosen to give it a shot. Some may dismiss these small bundles of fashion as trendy. They may be right. Who knows how long they will be popular. Nevertheless, I think they provide a quiet injection of well-appointed grace. Nothing too ornate, but visible enough to elicit approving admiration.  I’ll be ordering a pair in the weeks to come. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Black Thought

“Have you grown to the point where you can unflinchingly stand up for the right, for that which is honorable, honest, truthful, whether it makes you popular or unpopular? Have you grown to the point where absolutely and unreservedly you make truth and honor your standard of thinking and speaking?”

Booker T. Washington

Sometimes, a gentleman must utilize the power of his voice to tell individuals what they need you hear, and not necessarily what they want to hear. Trust, there exists a sharp contrast between the two. And sometimes, he must make a stand for what he believes is right and true. In some cases, truth brings an unmistakable pain of reality, often a reality that many people resist or ignore. And truth can sometimes be a nasty medicine that is seemingly unbearable to digest. Nevertheless, a gentleman would be doing a terrible disservice by masking truth with pleasant, comfortable falsehoods. A gentleman must be a credible source of wise counsel. He bears the responsibility of imparting wisdom and providing useful knowledge. True, some spoken truths will certainly bring unpopularity. Standing steadfast by one’s moral convictions won’t be deemed as popular either. But this isn’t a popularity contest. This is about delivering a righteous word. This is about standing for substance of a higher standard – no matter what resistance you might encounter. Don’t waver. Stand tall. Stand confident. Speak truth. Make a difference.

Cheap Thrills – Boldly Accessorize At A Low Cost

The Tie Bar

Gentlemen – rejoice! Currently, we are enthusiastically enjoying a sartorial renaissance of sorts. Pleasantly inundated with a bevy of stylish options, a gentleman can attire himself in a handsome array of clothing, and he doesn’t have to break the bank in doing so. Sure, dressing great can become expensive if a gentleman allows it. And true, there are some items a gentleman cannot maneuver around without dropping some heavy coin. Nevertheless, there exists pathway to smart elegance that doesn’t include high price-tags. Deft utilization of sharp accessories can make an outfit look right-on-the-money without spending a tremendous amount of it. Here, you will find a collection upstart companies that offer insanely inexpensive, superbly stylish accouterments that can definitely elevate a gentleman’s fashion quotient without stressing your pocketbook. Continue reading

Gent Hints – The Double-Breasted Suit Jacket

Denzel Washington – GQ – Nathaniel Goldberg

This past Saturday, I had the distinct honor of speaking and presenting at the 2012 Man of Style & Scholarship Weekend Conference, which was held at Marygrove College here in Detroit, Michigan. Speaking to a group of young African-American students; my presentation focused on image, dress, self-esteem, and behavior. After the conference was finished, a few young men stayed afterwards to pose a few questions. One question that stuck out pertained to the double-breasted suit jacket. Now, this young gentleman was all of 17 or 18 years old. And I understand that style is all a matter of taste. But, if there is one particular item in a gentleman’s closet that screams age appropriate, the double-breasted suit jacket would be it. When executed properly, the resulting presentation can be incredible. If there is a crucial misstep, one could be viewed as a pretender. Look, double-breasted jackets can be hard to pull off. A gentleman runs the risk of trying to look older when he really isn’t, or trying to convey power when he has none. Nevertheless, if you have the power and confidence required for such a task, go right ahead young Jedi. Just make sure you keep these tips in mind.

  • Double-breasted jackets are meant to have a dynamic fit throughout the mid-section, extra material will only make you look boxy and frumpy.
  • Button options: contemporary tastes favor 4 or 6 buttons. If you are wearing a 4 button, fasten the top right button; or button the middle right button if you are rocking a 6 button jacket.
  • And speaking of buttons, keep the darn thing buttoned! It’s not designed to wear open. You diminish its swagger if you do.
  • But, if you must, open it up from time to time for a rakish, casual flair.
  • A dark jacket is always classic for business occasions, while lighter alternates move into more casual waters.
  • And if you are venturing into casual waters, don’t be afraid to pair your double-breasted with a pair of dark jeans. Now, that’s a gutsy move right there!
  • Watch the peak lapels, the tip of your lapels should approximately reach the middle region of your shoulders.
  • A double-breasted jacket is a bold statement enough, so don’t get too wild with the patterns. Keep the scale subtle and discreet.
  • Investing in a skilled tailor is a given, and this fact is double underscored if a gentleman packs a little something extra in his mid-section. Buttons may have a gentle tug when fastened, but they should not be over-stressed to the point of popping loose.
  • For the gentleman that is short of stature, the tail of his suit jacket should hit just below his rear. A longer suit jacket will only accentuate his modest height – not exactly what you want.

UPTOWN Gentleman: The Wool Pocket Square

Devout creatures of habit and ardent practitioners of unvarying routines, some gentlemen demonstrate a certain predilection towards sartorial monotony. In other words, they gradually gravitate towards what is fashionably comfortable and they never depart from that orbit. And nothing symbolizes comfortable, safe certainty than cotton. Residing amongst all of his personal furnishings, cotton rules because cotton is king. Cotton shirts. Cotton pants. Cotton socks. However, there are moments when a gentleman should be encouraged to pivot towards other fabric choices. And let us not take the easy way out by turning focused attention to our trusty wool coat; that should be a given heading into the chillier part of the year. But, we are on the right track here. Wool is great, so let’s apply it to an accessory that is usually cotton – the pocket square. Here are six pocket square selections to glean inspiration. Enjoy.

Wool pocket squares have been a favorite of mine for quite some time now. I actually own the pocket square pictured above. Seriously, you should join the club. Check out my online post for UPTOWN Magazine and see why. Oh, yes, that can be found HERE.

Standard Recommendations – The Merona Knit Cap

I have always been cautious of discount retail chains, such as Wal-Mart and Target, that have aggressively entered the market of selling serious clothing merchandise. Beyond the standard collection of tee shirts, underwear, and socks; it feels slightly strange retrieving a gallon of milk from aisle 16 and then selecting a merino sweater from aisle 12. Prejudiced by the simple reality of kitty litter being a few feet away, I always suspected that the clothing sold was cheap. And not cheap as in price, but cheap as in cheaply constructed. One spin in the washing machine would surely send your sport shirt to a premature state of fraying and tearing.

Nevertheless, I have heard whispers that clothing from stores such as Target was actually good. In a concerted effort to offer quality products at an affordable price, Target has teamed up with various big time designers to offer such selections, as well as offering their own house brands. So, that brings me to one such brand – Merona. In search of a good cold weather cap, the thought of slapping down $50 to $70 for a cap wasn’t too thrilling. And so, I found myself in Target doing some light shopping when I spied the Merona knit cap. Now, for approximately $3.99, the risk was minimal and the reward would be tremendous if it performed its duties.

Offered up in a myriad of colors, I promptly grabbed a black, charcoal gray, and green knit cap. It’s not 100% wool though. It’s actually a blend of predominantly acrylic and some spandex for stretch. That didn’t matter. My only concern was would it keep my bald head warm. And it does. The fit is comfortable. It doesn’t lose its shape. And it keeps the dome nice and toasty. For $3.99 a pop, a gentleman can’t beat that. Sure, it’s not wool or cashmere, but I’m not trying to win on style points here. Not when arctic blasts are threatening to take off my ear lobes. Thus, the Merona knit cap passes the test. With the colors offered, it’s a great way to accessorize your look with a little color, stay warm, and do it on the cheap. This cap is a winner. And I’ll probably be back at Target to pick up a few more. There’s an orange one with my name on it.

Style & Substance – The Field Vest

Big Sean – GQ – Tom Schirmacher

Okay, first, allow me to address the obvious: Big Sean isn’t “big” at all. If I were a betting gentleman, I would wager that Big Sean weighs somewhere in the universe of 150 to 170 pounds. I could be incorrect. Nonetheless, the fact remains unchanged – Big Sean is a gentleman with a slender frame. And thus, I find this month’s endorsement by GQ mildly amusing. In a pictorial showcasing down field vests, Big Sean is modeled with the aforementioned vest layered comfortably under his sport coat. Apologies, but for an average gentleman with a modest amount of weight on his frame, this look is preposterous. I understand what GQ is trying to achieve here, but if “Big” Glen tries to squeeze a down vest under his sport coat, he would probably suffer two collapsed lungs from the subsequent pressure being applied. My advice: forgo the business jacket and secure yourself a toasty hat and pair of gloves to keep warm. Better yet, how about wearing, say, a regular cold weather coat over your ensemble? Because, cramming yourself into a blazer or sport coat for the sake of layering, can be really distressing. And when it’s cold outside, we have better things to worry about than shifting around uncomfortably in our gear. What say the audience?

Welcome To The New Gentlemen’s Standard

And we’re open for business. Welcome to the brand new, streamlined Gentlemen’s Standard. The move was tough, but necessary. I had outgrown Blogger and needed a change. Thus, I decided to make the move to WordPress. It has been a long time coming. Trying to keep up with regular blogging, working my regular job, and working this site was very time-consuming. But, I am pleased with the work. There is so much more to come, as I still have tons of content to add. I just ask for your patience, and I hope you are happy with the new site as well. Check out the new sections, as I have attempted to streamline some of the more popular content from my old site. So, tell a friend, we’re back to blogging – and we’re new and improved!

Style & Substance – The Checked Shirt

Brooks Brothers – Black Fleece

So, I took a brief excursion out to the Off Fifth Saks outlet at Great Lakes Crossing Sunday morning. In dire need of a new winter cap, I armed myself with a 30 percent off coupon, hoping that I would score a great deal. Well, I did score a great deal, but it was not for the hat that I was in search of. Nevertheless, I got a great Michael Kors heavy woolen field coat for only $120.00 – discounted from $400.00! More on that in a future post. Today, I wanted to share an observation. It looks like the trend for shirts this season is leaning heavily towards checked patterns. Seriously, there were checks everywhere. And not just any check, we are talking big, boisterous cotton checkerboard offerings. The patterns were certainly pronounced, but they weren’t visually obnoxious to the point of inducing nausea. It’s funny, stripes were were all the rage a few years ago. But I digress; maintaining a modicum of shopping discipline (I did, however, snatch some hosiery while I was there), I departed the store empty-handed – save for the aforementioned coat and socks. Nevertheless, I think I will buy a shirt or two with a bold check if I am at Kohls or JC Penney – no need to break the bank on sport shirts, that’s just a personal rule of mine. So, how about you – pass or grab?