Style & Substance – Allen Edmonds Burgundy Wingtip Brogues

McAllisterI have been keeping a watchful eye out for a pair of dark burgundy dress shoes. And I was finally able to score a nice pair of Allen Edmonds Mcallisters during a fortuitous sale. Yes!

Style & Substance – Artifact Bag Company Lunch Tote

Artifact Lunch ToteTruthfully, I have never been one to faithfully carry a lunch to work. So, either one of two things would occur: 1) I would simply purchase my lunch at work. 2) I would simple not eat. Which, for obvious reasons, can be: 1) Foolishly expensive 2) Slightly unhealthy. However, this unconventional re-imagination of the gentleman’s brown paper bag could change all of the that. Seriously, who knew lunch bags could exude so much stylish moxie? Now, if I were to bring a lunch to work Monday through Friday; this ruggedly handsome lunch tote, courtesy of Artifact Bag Company, would be chosen conduit for which my food would travel. Sorry, carrying my lunch in a discarded Target bag is a little unseemly to me. I would rather go with the original paper bag concept. But I digress; constructed of waxed cotton canvas, genuine Horween leather straps, and solid copper rivets – this bag is killer. Perhaps this will land on the Christmas list with my wife. I will let  you know if Mrs. Palmer/Klaus deems me nice this year. Until then, check out the cool video below for more insight from Artifact’s founder, Chris Hughes.

Artifact Bag Company from Turnpost on Vimeo.

Style & Substance – The Collar Bar

To be sure, a gentleman can attain a luxurious presentation without spending a luxury on his wardrobe. Some time ago, I became fascinated with a seldom used gentleman’s accessory known as the collar bar. Now, if you are a fan of the critically acclaimed series Mad Men, or even Boardwalk Empire, you would recognize there isn’t a shortage of these little stylish accouterments in each episode. Tucked underneath the necktie knot, securing the points of the dress shirt collar; it ever so slightly lifts the visibility of the necktie. It’s neat. It’s sophisticated. It has an old school flavor to it. And I wanted one. Thankfully, my lovely wife was visiting her sister in New York last year, and a Paul Stuart store was not far away. So, being the darling that she is, Stephanie was kind enough to grab her loving husband one for a mere $19.50. This is but a small example illustrating how a discreet accessory can alter the dynamic of your appearance. The slight hint of understated style can instantly upgrade a look and add a unique depth to one’s presentation. Now, I am not advocating collar bars for every gentleman, rather I am advocating the subtle power of the right accessory. Trust your sartorial instincts and select what works fine for you.

Style & Substance – Bullet Designs Bullet Cufflinks

Inherently, I am not a violent individual. No – seriously, sincerely I am not. So, some might find it a little peculiar that I be drawn to cufflinks that are made of – wait for it – bullet fragments. Yes, bullet fragments. Composed of recycled, fired bullets; these unconventional cufflinks drip bad boy appeal without any prerequisites that require committing a felony. Designed and manufactured here in the good old United States, we do love our firearms, this rakish gentleman’s accoutrement is available from Bullet Designs, LLC. Great for the environment and great for your own personal style, they clock in at an absurdly low $19.95. I might go ahead and bite the bullet – yeah, that was bad – and order a pair. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Style & Substance – The Irregular Pocket Square Fold

With a charismatic corruption of the conservative presidential fold, this particular pocket square presentation conveys an atmosphere of brash confidence- a presentation only reserved for those gentlemen trained in the art of effortless, slightly disinterested elegance. And yes, I am penning another entry that champions the serviceability of the devoted chest pocket companion. Why? Well, because those gentlemen without the luxury of disposal income deserve every stylish, affordable tool in his arsenal to be well-dressed. And the pocket square is a subtle, inexpensive option that should be wisely explored. Nevertheless, this dandy fold can certainly add a dash of debonair to your suit ensemble. Folded in an asymmetric square, this method is most suited for pocket squares with edges trimmed with color. Less structured. Gorgeously disheveled. Check your favorite men’s fashion magazines, this look is definitely trending big right now. And unlike most trends, this one will enjoy some well-deserved longevity. Rock it in style.

Style & Substance – Striped Berry & Gray Socks With Loafers

It’s true, I have not summoned the necessary courage to deploy the impossibly trendy, unapologetic no-sock presentation at work. Hey, a wise gentleman recognizes his sartorial limitations. Besides, it was a tad bit nippy outside today in good old Michigan. Thus, I smartly retrieved a cool pair of striped, cotton Hugo Boss socks from the bottom dresser drawer and headed out to work. During a brief meeting this morning, a co-worker quickly noticed my whimsical hosiery. She seemed to like them. She thought they could make for a great uni-sex sock. Well, I don’t know about all of that, but they look pretty good on these manly dogs. Woof!

Style & Substance – The Tweed Suit

GQ – Dwyane Wade – Will Welch

To be perfectly honest, I am still not a supporter of the whole relaxed, whimsical presentation of a loosely knotted necktie. If you are going through the entire knotting exercise, a gentleman should just complete the look and tighten it up. That is just my humble opinion. But that is neither here or there, today we are looking at the tweed suit, executed properly here by Dwyane Wade. Forgetting that Mr. Wade plays for the loathsome Miami Heat, the man knows how to dress, or at least he hires the proper staff to dress him. Here, his suit is perfectly contoured to his proportions-nothing excessively slim; just appropriately tailored for his stature. And a quick note to gentlemen who still rock the six button suits: Wade stands 6 foot 4, but he opts here to sport a two button suit-and it looks fantastic! Keep that in mind. Tweed jackets have enjoyed a history of being bulky and itchy, but contemporary versions have reduced the mass and refined the fabric. The result: a definite winner for the winter season. And the v-neck sweater and newsboy cap? That’s a nice touch too. Just tighten that necktie!

Style & Substance – The Wool Bow Tie

Quite a few years ago, the incomparable bow tie staged a furious return to the world of men’s style. Championed by a few well-dressed dandies, fearless gentlemen across the nation secured at least a couple to seamlessly weave into their wardrobe. Wise move gents. But, before we could become buried beneath a superfluous heap of whimsical cloth, or driven to insane irritation because of its exaggerated usage, the trend leveled off and the bow tie became an ordinary, contemporary staple in a gent’s closet. Demonstrating surprising sartorial sustainability, the bow tie appears to be here to stay. And not as a silly or quirky conversation starter, we are of course adults here. No, these bow ties are serious. Not convinced? Check out the seriousness of this wool flannel offering from Phineas Cole. Devoid colorful polka dots (although those are popular this fall) or rambunctious animal motifs, this bow tie coveys a quiet sophistication requisite of a refined gentleman – a standard we should all seek to retain.

Style & Substance – The Suit & Loafer

Esquire - Tony Kim

Esquire – Tony Kim

To be sure, pertaining to matters of a gentleman’s suit, its style, more specifically how it is worn, has slowly transformed over the decades. What was generally unacceptable decades past is now being passionately embraced by a younger demographic; and they have vigorously applied their own spin on the gentleman’s standard uniform. Take for instance the gentleman’s dress shoe and how it is married to the aforementioned suit. The dress oxford, be it a cap toe or wingtip option, has long been the widely accepted choice for proper footing. No more. Over the years, the loafer has been welcomed as a viable selection. Initially frowned upon by the establishment, the loafer is now being actively recruited to fill the shoes of, well, your regular dress shoes. And the look works – extraordinarily well in fact. Tassels, metal bit, or maybe just a plain vamp; rocking a pair of clean, chiseled loafers with a suit just isn’t right – it’s right now. However, here at The Gentlemen’s Standard, we endorse wearing some socks to complete the look. But hey, we’re based in Michigan, so the weather doesn’t grant many days of sockless aplomb. So, go ahead, rock your loafers with confidence gents. Boom!

Style & Substance – The Wool Necktie

Stylishly inconspicuous. Fashionably unobtrusive. Quietly entering the room, its presence is announced by its reserved elegance. Sometimes in a gentleman’s life, he is required to exude a sober & restrained presentation. The solid wool necktie is there for his assistance. Set against the background of an immaculate white dress shirt, the gentleman displays great grace and aplomb in his excellent execution of elegance. And given the eventual transition into autumn and winter, neckties arriving in wool are an intelligent choice. Wool provides some serious visual depth to the usual dress shirt & necktie combination. Don’t worry about any difficulty knotting your necktie either. Given wool has exceptional resilience, knotting a perfect four-in-hand is quite easy. And the fabric returns to its original shape just fine. Opt for dark hues such as navy, brown, or gray. Pair with a fine merino sweater or tweed sport coat for a discreetly handsome ensemble. Every gentleman’s closet should maintain a few in circulation. You won’t be sorry.

Mr Porter – Mr Justin FitzPatrick – Art of the Shoe Shine

There is nothing contained in a gentleman’s presentation that should elicit the same level of deference that a well-polished shoe should elicit. Seriously – nothing at all. And the explanation is really quite simple: There isn’t another element in a gentleman’s dress that requires the same labor and attention that a high-gloss, mirror-shine pair of oxfords demands. Trust, a gentleman needs to apply a little elbow grease to achieve the necessary glassy effect. And I would be remiss not to mention the meticulous diligence toward step by step details. Still not convinced? Take a look at this video produced by Mr Porter featuring shoe aficionado Justin FitzPatrick. After you appreciate the work, take yourself over to Mr. FitzPatrick’s blog THE SHOE SNOB for further shoe admiration. You won’t regret it.

Style & Substance – The Lapel Flower

For the distinguished gentleman, the past few years in style have been quite fascinating. For what seemed like an eternity, a gentleman’s options in the sartorial arena were largely ignored, or simply forgotten altogether. Smart, stylish selections were scant in local department stores. Knowledge was segregated within privileged circles of the few. If an average gentleman so desired to step his dress game up, he would definitely be challenged in meeting that objective.

However, recently, the Internet has granted the widespread sharing of such sacred knowledge. And a gentleman no longer has to scour department store after department store in search of a discreet piece of elegance. Yes, the Internet has also given rise not only to online versions of popular upscale stores, but the independently owned small business is seeing some shine as well. Which brings me to hook + ALBERT and the aforementioned discreet piece of elegance.

It was not that long ago that many gentlemen took to inserting a colorful silk knot in the buttonhole on their lapel jacket. And then what followed was a contemporary take on the classic floral boutonniere. Instead of adorning your lapel with a fresh floral offering, such as a carnation, a gentleman could choose from a variety of crocheted cotton or wool replicas. I have been studying this look for awhile now; debating on whether or not the look would complement my personality.

Every gentleman’s style should coincide with own character. And so, I have chosen to give it a shot. Some may dismiss these small bundles of fashion as trendy. They may be right. Who knows how long they will be popular. Nevertheless, I think they provide a quiet injection of well-appointed grace. Nothing too ornate, but visible enough to elicit approving admiration.  I’ll be ordering a pair in the weeks to come. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Gent Hints – The Double-Breasted Suit Jacket

Denzel Washington – GQ – Nathaniel Goldberg

This past Saturday, I had the distinct honor of speaking and presenting at the 2012 Man of Style & Scholarship Weekend Conference, which was held at Marygrove College here in Detroit, Michigan. Speaking to a group of young African-American students; my presentation focused on image, dress, self-esteem, and behavior. After the conference was finished, a few young men stayed afterwards to pose a few questions. One question that stuck out pertained to the double-breasted suit jacket. Now, this young gentleman was all of 17 or 18 years old. And I understand that style is all a matter of taste. But, if there is one particular item in a gentleman’s closet that screams age appropriate, the double-breasted suit jacket would be it. When executed properly, the resulting presentation can be incredible. If there is a crucial misstep, one could be viewed as a pretender. Look, double-breasted jackets can be hard to pull off. A gentleman runs the risk of trying to look older when he really isn’t, or trying to convey power when he has none. Nevertheless, if you have the power and confidence required for such a task, go right ahead young Jedi. Just make sure you keep these tips in mind.

  • Double-breasted jackets are meant to have a dynamic fit throughout the mid-section, extra material will only make you look boxy and frumpy.
  • Button options: contemporary tastes favor 4 or 6 buttons. If you are wearing a 4 button, fasten the top right button; or button the middle right button if you are rocking a 6 button jacket.
  • And speaking of buttons, keep the darn thing buttoned! It’s not designed to wear open. You diminish its swagger if you do.
  • But, if you must, open it up from time to time for a rakish, casual flair.
  • A dark jacket is always classic for business occasions, while lighter alternates move into more casual waters.
  • And if you are venturing into casual waters, don’t be afraid to pair your double-breasted with a pair of dark jeans. Now, that’s a gutsy move right there!
  • Watch the peak lapels, the tip of your lapels should approximately reach the middle region of your shoulders.
  • A double-breasted jacket is a bold statement enough, so don’t get too wild with the patterns. Keep the scale subtle and discreet.
  • Investing in a skilled tailor is a given, and this fact is double underscored if a gentleman packs a little something extra in his mid-section. Buttons may have a gentle tug when fastened, but they should not be over-stressed to the point of popping loose.
  • For the gentleman that is short of stature, the tail of his suit jacket should hit just below his rear. A longer suit jacket will only accentuate his modest height – not exactly what you want.

Style & Substance – The Field Vest

Big Sean – GQ – Tom Schirmacher

Okay, first, allow me to address the obvious: Big Sean isn’t “big” at all. If I were a betting gentleman, I would wager that Big Sean weighs somewhere in the universe of 150 to 170 pounds. I could be incorrect. Nonetheless, the fact remains unchanged – Big Sean is a gentleman with a slender frame. And thus, I find this month’s endorsement by GQ mildly amusing. In a pictorial showcasing down field vests, Big Sean is modeled with the aforementioned vest layered comfortably under his sport coat. Apologies, but for an average gentleman with a modest amount of weight on his frame, this look is preposterous. I understand what GQ is trying to achieve here, but if “Big” Glen tries to squeeze a down vest under his sport coat, he would probably suffer two collapsed lungs from the subsequent pressure being applied. My advice: forgo the business jacket and secure yourself a toasty hat and pair of gloves to keep warm. Better yet, how about wearing, say, a regular cold weather coat over your ensemble? Because, cramming yourself into a blazer or sport coat for the sake of layering, can be really distressing. And when it’s cold outside, we have better things to worry about than shifting around uncomfortably in our gear. What say the audience?

Style & Substance – The Checked Shirt

Brooks Brothers – Black Fleece

So, I took a brief excursion out to the Off Fifth Saks outlet at Great Lakes Crossing Sunday morning. In dire need of a new winter cap, I armed myself with a 30 percent off coupon, hoping that I would score a great deal. Well, I did score a great deal, but it was not for the hat that I was in search of. Nevertheless, I got a great Michael Kors heavy woolen field coat for only $120.00 – discounted from $400.00! More on that in a future post. Today, I wanted to share an observation. It looks like the trend for shirts this season is leaning heavily towards checked patterns. Seriously, there were checks everywhere. And not just any check, we are talking big, boisterous cotton checkerboard offerings. The patterns were certainly pronounced, but they weren’t visually obnoxious to the point of inducing nausea. It’s funny, stripes were were all the rage a few years ago. But I digress; maintaining a modicum of shopping discipline (I did, however, snatch some hosiery while I was there), I departed the store empty-handed – save for the aforementioned coat and socks. Nevertheless, I think I will buy a shirt or two with a bold check if I am at Kohls or JC Penney – no need to break the bank on sport shirts, that’s just a personal rule of mine. So, how about you – pass or grab?