There is nothing contained in a gentleman’s presentation that should elicit the same level of deference that a well-polished shoe should elicit. Seriously – nothing at all. And the explanation is really quite simple: There isn’t another element in a gentleman’s dress that requires the same labor and attention that a high-gloss, mirror-shine pair of oxfords demands. Trust, a gentleman needs to apply a little elbow grease to achieve the necessary glassy effect. And I would be remiss not to mention the meticulous diligence toward step by step details. Still not convinced? Take a look at this video produced by Mr Porter featuring shoe aficionado Justin FitzPatrick. After you appreciate the work, take yourself over to Mr. FitzPatrick’s blog THE SHOE SNOB for further shoe admiration. You won’t regret it.
Category Archives: Style & Substance
Style & Substance – The Lapel Flower
For the distinguished gentleman, the past few years in style have been quite fascinating. For what seemed like an eternity, a gentleman’s options in the sartorial arena were largely ignored, or simply forgotten altogether. Smart, stylish selections were scant in local department stores. Knowledge was segregated within privileged circles of the few. If an average gentleman so desired to step his dress game up, he would definitely be challenged in meeting that objective.
However, recently, the Internet has granted the widespread sharing of such sacred knowledge. And a gentleman no longer has to scour department store after department store in search of a discreet piece of elegance. Yes, the Internet has also given rise not only to online versions of popular upscale stores, but the independently owned small business is seeing some shine as well. Which brings me to hook + ALBERT and the aforementioned discreet piece of elegance.
It was not that long ago that many gentlemen took to inserting a colorful silk knot in the buttonhole on their lapel jacket. And then what followed was a contemporary take on the classic floral boutonniere. Instead of adorning your lapel with a fresh floral offering, such as a carnation, a gentleman could choose from a variety of crocheted cotton or wool replicas. I have been studying this look for awhile now; debating on whether or not the look would complement my personality.
Every gentleman’s style should coincide with own character. And so, I have chosen to give it a shot. Some may dismiss these small bundles of fashion as trendy. They may be right. Who knows how long they will be popular. Nevertheless, I think they provide a quiet injection of well-appointed grace. Nothing too ornate, but visible enough to elicit approving admiration. I’ll be ordering a pair in the weeks to come. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Gent Hints – The Double-Breasted Suit Jacket
Denzel Washington – GQ – Nathaniel Goldberg
This past Saturday, I had the distinct honor of speaking and presenting at the 2012 Man of Style & Scholarship Weekend Conference, which was held at Marygrove College here in Detroit, Michigan. Speaking to a group of young African-American students; my presentation focused on image, dress, self-esteem, and behavior. After the conference was finished, a few young men stayed afterwards to pose a few questions. One question that stuck out pertained to the double-breasted suit jacket. Now, this young gentleman was all of 17 or 18 years old. And I understand that style is all a matter of taste. But, if there is one particular item in a gentleman’s closet that screams age appropriate, the double-breasted suit jacket would be it. When executed properly, the resulting presentation can be incredible. If there is a crucial misstep, one could be viewed as a pretender. Look, double-breasted jackets can be hard to pull off. A gentleman runs the risk of trying to look older when he really isn’t, or trying to convey power when he has none. Nevertheless, if you have the power and confidence required for such a task, go right ahead young Jedi. Just make sure you keep these tips in mind.
- Double-breasted jackets are meant to have a dynamic fit throughout the mid-section, extra material will only make you look boxy and frumpy.
- Button options: contemporary tastes favor 4 or 6 buttons. If you are wearing a 4 button, fasten the top right button; or button the middle right button if you are rocking a 6 button jacket.
- And speaking of buttons, keep the darn thing buttoned! It’s not designed to wear open. You diminish its swagger if you do.
- But, if you must, open it up from time to time for a rakish, casual flair.
- A dark jacket is always classic for business occasions, while lighter alternates move into more casual waters.
- And if you are venturing into casual waters, don’t be afraid to pair your double-breasted with a pair of dark jeans. Now, that’s a gutsy move right there!
- Watch the peak lapels, the tip of your lapels should approximately reach the middle region of your shoulders.
- A double-breasted jacket is a bold statement enough, so don’t get too wild with the patterns. Keep the scale subtle and discreet.
- Investing in a skilled tailor is a given, and this fact is double underscored if a gentleman packs a little something extra in his mid-section. Buttons may have a gentle tug when fastened, but they should not be over-stressed to the point of popping loose.
- For the gentleman that is short of stature, the tail of his suit jacket should hit just below his rear. A longer suit jacket will only accentuate his modest height – not exactly what you want.
Style & Substance – The Field Vest
Big Sean – GQ – Tom Schirmacher
Okay, first, allow me to address the obvious: Big Sean isn’t “big” at all. If I were a betting gentleman, I would wager that Big Sean weighs somewhere in the universe of 150 to 170 pounds. I could be incorrect. Nonetheless, the fact remains unchanged – Big Sean is a gentleman with a slender frame. And thus, I find this month’s endorsement by GQ mildly amusing. In a pictorial showcasing down field vests, Big Sean is modeled with the aforementioned vest layered comfortably under his sport coat. Apologies, but for an average gentleman with a modest amount of weight on his frame, this look is preposterous. I understand what GQ is trying to achieve here, but if “Big” Glen tries to squeeze a down vest under his sport coat, he would probably suffer two collapsed lungs from the subsequent pressure being applied. My advice: forgo the business jacket and secure yourself a toasty hat and pair of gloves to keep warm. Better yet, how about wearing, say, a regular cold weather coat over your ensemble? Because, cramming yourself into a blazer or sport coat for the sake of layering, can be really distressing. And when it’s cold outside, we have better things to worry about than shifting around uncomfortably in our gear. What say the audience?
Style & Substance – The Checked Shirt
Brooks Brothers – Black Fleece
So, I took a brief excursion out to the Off Fifth Saks outlet at Great Lakes Crossing Sunday morning. In dire need of a new winter cap, I armed myself with a 30 percent off coupon, hoping that I would score a great deal. Well, I did score a great deal, but it was not for the hat that I was in search of. Nevertheless, I got a great Michael Kors heavy woolen field coat for only $120.00 – discounted from $400.00! More on that in a future post. Today, I wanted to share an observation. It looks like the trend for shirts this season is leaning heavily towards checked patterns. Seriously, there were checks everywhere. And not just any check, we are talking big, boisterous cotton checkerboard offerings. The patterns were certainly pronounced, but they weren’t visually obnoxious to the point of inducing nausea. It’s funny, stripes were were all the rage a few years ago. But I digress; maintaining a modicum of shopping discipline (I did, however, snatch some hosiery while I was there), I departed the store empty-handed – save for the aforementioned coat and socks. Nevertheless, I think I will buy a shirt or two with a bold check if I am at Kohls or JC Penney – no need to break the bank on sport shirts, that’s just a personal rule of mine. So, how about you – pass or grab?
Style & Substance – The Polka Dot Pocket Square
Richard JamesSo, the gentleman’s word on the avenue is polka dot will be a popular pattern in accessories when autumn arrives in a few months. Which is terrific news for me because I started procuring a few polka dot neckties and pocket squares a couple of years ago. Classic patterns, when utilized properly and smartly, will never fade into obscurity. The fact is: Some patterns are simply more popular than others during varying moments in time. Now it is time for polka dots to receive a little shine. And as coincidence would have it, this chocolate and blue beauty caught my eye over at Mr Porter just yesterday. Sure, some gentlemen may be apprehensive about pairing blue and brown. And sure, the polka dot pattern is a little pronounced here. Nevertheless, this is the kind of visual flair that can elevate an otherwise serious sport coat or suit jacket. If the gentleman is careful in keeping any pattern in his dress shirt, his necktie, or even his jacket in check – there shouldn’t be any reason why you cannot rock this pocket square with reckless elegance. I see this handsome square brashly tucked in the breast pocket of a medium gray suit. Yes – I said gray suit. Topped off with some chocolate oxfords. Killer!
Style & Substance – The Gentleman’s Slipper
Charles Philip Shanghai
I could be totally mistaken here, but I have always held the assumption that slippers are to be worn within the confines of one’s humble abode. However, with greater and greater frequency, I am noticing that slippers have gravitated beyond the walls of the household and onto the concrete walkway. And I am not referring to the casual stroll down the driveway to retrieve the daily newspaper either. No, gentlemen are rocking slippers as if they are your standard pair of loafers. With denim jeans. With khakis. Even with dress trousers. Now, take the example above, these slippers by Charles Philip Shanghai are definitely a handsome spectacle to beyond, but I am fearful that the construction will not sustain a repeated beating against the hard pavement. Consisting of a suede upper, cotton lining, and rubber sole; perhaps these puppies are meant to be worn around the office on a casual Friday. It just seems like these are designed for a flair of rakish eccentricity and not serious pavement pounding. But again, I could be wrong. Nevertheless, at $175.00, I’m not willing to take a chance.
