The Tie Bar – Dwyane Wade – The Gentleman Collection

d wade tie barOkay, despite my personal feelings for the Miami Heat, the impending collaboration between Dwyane Wade and The Tie Bar is actually pretty cool. Launching this November, Wade will assist in designing the requisite cadre of neckties, bow ties, pocket squares, tie bars, etc. I have always been a fan of The Tie Bar, as the price versus quality dynamic has always been favorable for any well-dressed gentleman who is budget conscious. Being the fashion-forward gentleman Wade is, it will be quite interesting to see what the eventual line looks like. I sincerely hope there are some moderately conservative selections offered for us gents that don’t follow the Russell Westbrook code of sartorial dress. Let us hope. For more information, check out the release over at GQ and sign up for exclusive updates directly over at The Tie Bar. Stay tuned.

GQ: http://www.gq.com/style/blogs/the-gq-eye/2013/09/dwayne-wade-the-tie-bar-collaboration.html

The Tie Bar: http://www.thetiebar.com/dwyanewade/

Brotherly Love – Tyson Beckford – UPTOWN Magazine

uptown-tyson-sept-2013-p6-585x784UPTOWN Magazine: A Gentleman’s Return – Tyson Beckford

http://uptownmagazine.com/2013/09/a-gentlemans-return-tyson-beckford/

Gent Hints – Suit Jacket Sleeve Length

Phineas Cole Fall 2013

Phineas Cole Fall 2013

Depending on certain details, the expanse lying between simply dressing and being well-dressed can be great, or it can be small. Again, that is largely dependent upon the quiet details that are contained within a gentleman’s presentation. Today, we are going to take a quick glance at the suit jacket sleeve. Sometimes, a gentleman’s sleeves will either be too short or too long. A majority of the time, the sleeve is too long. Generally, conventional advice from credible style aficionados dictate a sleeve length that exposes 1/4 to 1/2 inches of your dress shirt cuff. Now, a reputable tailor should be able to eyeball the appropriate measurement and tailor accordingly. However, to provide some visual assurance to yourself, there are two anatomical guides that should ensure the proper sleeve length. First, the cuff of your dress shirt should extend all the way to the base of your palm. Second, locate the bony, circular knobs on the outside of both wrists – that’s a part of your carpus, the cluster of bones that comprise the wrist – this is where your suit sleeve should hit, depending on your tastes and anatomy. Utilizing both of those physical markers, a gentleman should be able to achieve the correct length of his suit jacket sleeve.

4 Influential Black Bloggers You Should Know – One Is Me!

InfluencersApologies. Some people may be unaware, but aside from my writing and blogging escapades, I actually maintain regular 9 to 5 employment. On occasion, time quietly evades me. And so, apologies. I have not been able to share some fantastic news with the audience. That news: I have been named as one of four influential black bloggers that the public should know, as deemed by AT&T The Bridge. Truly, I am humbled. This blog occupies a fairly miniscule portion of the Internet universe, so to be recognized as an influential blogger of color is awesome. Yes, awesome. And in other awesome news, I have been selected to be a contributor to the Details’ network of fashion writers across that same Internet universe. Perhaps you may have noticed my Details badge at the bottom of the page. August was a great month. Up next…presenting a workshop at Covenant House Detroit that will focus on the importance of dressing well for job interviews. I am excited and I will be sure to share with the audience after the presentation ends. I promise.

Check the AT&T The Bridge article here.

http://thebridge.att.net/Lifestyle/article/four-influential-black-bloggers-you-should-know.html

Gent Hints – Necktie Maintenance

Drake's Madder NecktieRitual: a detailed method of established procedure that is faithfully or regularly followed.

Now, with respect to a gentleman’s wardrobe, maintaining a set of rituals can be greatly beneficial, especially with regards to preventative maintenance. Nothing can subtract years off the life expectancy of a particular item in your closet more than neglect and ambivalence. A gentleman must adhere to a rigid, set rule of practices that ensure proper upkeep and preservation, or he may witness a wardrobe that prematurely succumbs to irreversible disrepair. Today, we are focusing on the necktie. In the following paragraph, you will find a tried and true method that will definitely extend your necktie’s longevity. Every evening after work, I follow the same ritual as I remove my necktie. Trust, it works.

Now, neckties are delicate creatures to begin with, and the continual knotting process can administer a brutal toll on its fabric. Therefore, it is paramount that a gentleman develops the habit of rolling his necktie after he has finished wearing it. First, it is wise to loosen your necktie and carefully reverse the knotting to return it to its untied form. Next, and this is the important part, start at the narrow end and tightly roll along its length. Given that I have enough neckties to endure until the following week, I usually leave my neckties coiled until I unroll them, smooth out the remaining wrinkles, and either hang or place in my dresser drawer. The timetable is up to you. Nevertheless, the key is rolling your necktie nice and tight to hammer out those wrinkles. And never, and we mean never, leave your necktie knotted when you’re not wearing it. You’ve been warned.

Cheap Thrills – Boldly Accessorize Your Look…At A Low Cost

The Tie Bar Pocket Square PlaidThe Tie Bar

Gentlemen – rejoice! Currently, we are enthusiastically enjoying a sartorial renaissance of sorts. Pleasantly inundated with a bevy of stylish options, a gentleman can attire himself in a handsome array of clothing, and he doesn’t have to break the bank in doing so. Sure, dressing great can become expensive if a gentleman allows it. And true, there are some items a gentleman cannot maneuver around without dropping some heavy coin. Nevertheless, there exists pathway to smart elegance that doesn’t include high price-tags. Deft utilization of sharp accessories can make an outfit look right-on-the-money without spending a tremendous amount of it. Here, you will find a collection upstart companies that offer insanely inexpensive, superbly stylish accouterments that can definitely elevate a gentleman’s fashion quotient without stressing your pocketbook. Continue reading

Profile – Gianni Cerutti – Passaggio Cravatte

My necktie collection is quite extensive – seriously, I probably don’t need to add any more to my tie drawer. It includes a vast array of patterns and fabrics. Colors and widths. Weights and brands. Nonetheless, none of my neckties are bespoke. Meaning all of my neckties are mass-produced and shipped to the public for purchasing consumption. With a bespoke offering, everything is custom to a gentleman’s specifications. Today, we sit down with Gianni Cerutti, co-founder of Passaggio Cravatte. A small operation located on the outskirts of Milan, Passaggio Cravatte only makes bespoke neckties. Mr. Cerutti was kind enough to share a few words on the bespoke process and what makes a custom-made necktie so damn exquisite. Enjoy the read. Continue reading

The Standard #13

African American Youth Men are not born with what one would identify as a “gentleman” gene in their DNA. Sure, some men naturally gravitate towards chivalrous, courteous behavior – but more often than not, such behavior is learned and embedded during various stages of male maturation. Conversely, some adolescents mature without said chivalrous attributes ever being instilled in their life. And that is an unfortunate reality; a reality that is shared by far too many young men growing up today. That must change. Now, as a child I would accompany my grandmother to the market for an afternoon of grocery shopping. My grandmother did not know how to drive, so we would walk to the market and I would help her carry grocery bags home. My brothers and I would actually request to tag along for such shopping excursions.

And now as an adult, I find myself helping elderly women in the market with their groceries, or helping them load bags into their car. Old habits die hard. Unbeknownst to me, the seeds of a future gentleman were being planted when I was but a youth. Furthermore, that benevolent mindset extends to other aspects in my life as well. Whether freeing a woman’s car from a snowbank or carrying a pregnant woman’s work bags to her car, I am driven by gentlemanly instinct. That is an instinct that must be imparted in young men today. It can be taught as an uncle, a mentor, a friend, or simply as a father. Chivalry. Valor. Courtesy. Politeness. Helpfulness. These are commodities that appear to be in scarce supply nowadays. If you are an owner of any or all, your wisdom is in high demand. Go ahead, there is a young man that needs you today.

Our Heritage – Railroaded Again

Tubman Sex TapeI wrote the following statement in a previous post, but in light of the latest Russell Simmons public relations debacle, it bears worth repeating: In matters of recognizing and appreciating the greatness of history, the specter of time hovers, always threatening to diminish the importance and seriousness of days forever removed. To be sure, history is a great educator; but if we allow the steady progression of time to dull its lessons, we will simply become students of profound ignorance. If you are not privy to what I am alluding to, well, Simmons launched a YouTube channel called All Def Digital. And on that channel, a vile parody was featured. Titled Harriet Tubman Sex Tape, it depicts a Mammy caricature in the role of Harriet Tubman seducing and sleeping with the plantation slave master, as another male slave secretly records the encounter from a nearby closet, all in an effort to blackmail her slave master into freeing slaves. Classy right? Public outrage followed. Cue fake apology by Simmons. Continue reading

Standard Recommendations – The Tie Clip – Apologies To Nick Sullivan

Lanvin Tie ClipNick Sullivan, Esquire’s resident fashion director, does not favor the ritual of affixing one’s necktie to one’s dress shirt utilizing the duties of the tie clip, or tie bar – whatever term you particularly fancy. I first learned this curious fact after watching a clip of Mr. Sullivan over at Mr Porter where they feature a video series titled The Way I Dress. During the brief clip, Sullivan explains his apparent dislike for the small accessory. And actually, it is not the dislike of tie clip itself, but the gentlemen that actually wear tie clips. Interesting. That sentiment was once again echoed in the September issue of Esquire in his advice section. Truthfully, his disdain for tie clips is never fully explained; aside from the reasoning that he just does not like them. Style is all about individuality, and a gentleman can maintain his sartorial preferences as he wishes. However, I cannot see tie clips as useless affectation because they actually serve a purpose. Sullivan thinks it looks too neat when the necktie is held strategically in place. What’s wrong with neat? Better than sloppy – right? Question: How many gentlemen actually blow their nose in handkerchief or pocket square? I would surmise not many, yet we wear them anyway because it affords a small, yet stylish detail to the overall ensemble. And so, in praise of the tie clip, we present 5 reasons why you should be wearing one. Continue reading

Gent Hints – Sport Coat Coordination

PS- Autumn 2012

Phineas Cole

To be sure, some gentlemen absolutely abhor the notion of wearing a suit, as they would sooner employ a sport coat as a viable alternative. So, when an occasion begs for a discreet level of business attire, said gentleman promptly retrieves his sport jacket of choice from the closet. Pretty simply – right? Well, not quite that simple. The sly substitution of a sport coat arrives with a curious dilemma of its own. Unlike the complete business suit, the sport coat quietly resides, draped around its wooden hanger without the devoted companionship of a matching trouser. Thus, the critical mission of expertly coordinating a pair of trousers becomes not as simple as previously imagined – that suit doesn’t look so terrible now. No worries, may we present to the audience, a quick and dirty guide to find the right pair of trousers for your sport coat. Continue reading

Brotherly Love – Nii Ayikwei Aryee – Adabraka Sartorialist

Nii 1From the streets of Adabraka in Accra, Ghana – some serious sartorial splendor. Boom!

http://adabraka-sartorialist.tumblr.com/

Don Lemon Logic & Sagging Pants

saggy-pantsSeriously, it was not my intent to provide commentary pertaining to Don Lemon’s logic and critique regarding societal ills afflicting the African-American community – honestly it wasn’t. However, the Internet meme that is Don Lemon Logic is compelling me to share a few thoughts. Specifically, I want to speak about the sartorial statement of sagging one’s trousers. So, let’s address this bit of business first: Don Lemon’s logic is flawed. Pulling one’s pants up to an acceptable, respectable height will not fund financially strapped schools in the inner city, lower the homicide and incarceration rate of young African-American males, or create meaningful employment in urban areas. Nevertheless, you know what other logic is flawed? It is the logic that passively defends the art of exposing one’s underwear in public. Continue reading

Coming Soon – Autumn 2013

Richard James Leaf Print PS

Mr Porter – Richard James

For many individuals, autumn recently arrived – albeit a tad prematurely, and provided a brief glimpse of what to expect late September and all of October. And what did that glimpse reveal? Automobile windows liberally covered by early morning dew. Nippy evenings that necessitated the need for an additional layer of clothing for comfort. And, we figured you have noticed, the days are steadily becoming shorter, with night arriving early, minute by minute. Soon enough, autumn will be upon us. So, what will the sartorial climate look like?  Unsurprisingly, fabrics will adopt a decidedly dark complexion, but don’t worry, tones won’t be exceedingly morose. All the bright hues and vibrant patterns of summer will step aside for conservative tones and sly, sophisticated designs. Clothing will become a touch heavier, but not burdensome. And a gentleman will have more accessories to deftly incorporate into his ensemble – without overdoing it. This season – less is definitely more. It will be the astute selection of a chosen accoutrement that will make the biggest visual impact. Sure, summer will definitely return, if not for a few weeks, to remind everyone that its time has not expired for the year 2013. Enjoy it. Because, as we move into the first half of August, we can be sure time is going to fly by. Get ready.

Heritage – Thurgood Marshall

thurgood-marshall

  • Born Thoroughgood Marshall on July 2, 1908 in Baltimore, Maryland
  • Graduated from Frederick Douglass High School in 1925
  • Earned Bachelor of Arts in Humanities, majoring in Literature and Philosophy from Lincoln University in 1930
  • Graduated magna cum laude, earning his degree in law, from Howard University School of Law in 1933
  • Worked as assistant special counsel at National Association for the Advancement of Colored People in Baltimore in 1936
  • Successfully argued first civil rights case, Murray v. Pearson, in 1936
  • Successfully argued first United States Supreme Court case, Chambers v. Florida, in 1940
  • Director of NAACP Legal Defense and Education Fund in 1940
  • Successfully argued Smith v. Allwright in 1944
  • Awarded Spingarn Medal in 1946
  • Successfully argued Shelley v. Kraemer in 1948
  • Successfully argued Sweatt v. Painter in 1950
  • Successfully argued McLaurin v. Oklahoma State Regents in 1950
  • Successfully argued Brown v. Board of Education of Topeka in 1954
  • Appointed to the United States Second Circuit Court of Appeals by President John F. Kennedy in 1961.
  • Appointed United States Solicitor General by President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965
  • First African-American appointed to Supreme Court in 1967
  • Retired from the Supreme Court in 1991
  • Received the Liberty Medal in 1992
  • Received Presidential Medal of Freedom, posthumously, from President Bill Clinton in 1993
  • Marshall died at the age of 84 years old on January 24, 1993