Cheap Thrills – Boldly Accessorize Your Look…At A Low Cost

The Tie Bar Pocket Square PlaidThe Tie Bar

Gentlemen – rejoice! Currently, we are enthusiastically enjoying a sartorial renaissance of sorts. Pleasantly inundated with a bevy of stylish options, a gentleman can attire himself in a handsome array of clothing, and he doesn’t have to break the bank in doing so. Sure, dressing great can become expensive if a gentleman allows it. And true, there are some items a gentleman cannot maneuver around without dropping some heavy coin. Nevertheless, there exists pathway to smart elegance that doesn’t include high price-tags. Deft utilization of sharp accessories can make an outfit look right-on-the-money without spending a tremendous amount of it. Here, you will find a collection upstart companies that offer insanely inexpensive, superbly stylish accouterments that can definitely elevate a gentleman’s fashion quotient without stressing your pocketbook. Continue reading

Profile – Gianni Cerutti – Passaggio Cravatte

My necktie collection is quite extensive – seriously, I probably don’t need to add any more to my tie drawer. It includes a vast array of patterns and fabrics. Colors and widths. Weights and brands. Nonetheless, none of my neckties are bespoke. Meaning all of my neckties are mass-produced and shipped to the public for purchasing consumption. With a bespoke offering, everything is custom to a gentleman’s specifications. Today, we sit down with Gianni Cerutti, co-founder of Passaggio Cravatte. A small operation located on the outskirts of Milan, Passaggio Cravatte only makes bespoke neckties. Mr. Cerutti was kind enough to share a few words on the bespoke process and what makes a custom-made necktie so damn exquisite. Enjoy the read. Continue reading

The Standard #13

African American Youth Men are not born with what one would identify as a “gentleman” gene in their DNA. Sure, some men naturally gravitate towards chivalrous, courteous behavior – but more often than not, such behavior is learned and embedded during various stages of male maturation. Conversely, some adolescents mature without said chivalrous attributes ever being instilled in their life. And that is an unfortunate reality; a reality that is shared by far too many young men growing up today. That must change. Now, as a child I would accompany my grandmother to the market for an afternoon of grocery shopping. My grandmother did not know how to drive, so we would walk to the market and I would help her carry grocery bags home. My brothers and I would actually request to tag along for such shopping excursions.

And now as an adult, I find myself helping elderly women in the market with their groceries, or helping them load bags into their car. Old habits die hard. Unbeknownst to me, the seeds of a future gentleman were being planted when I was but a youth. Furthermore, that benevolent mindset extends to other aspects in my life as well. Whether freeing a woman’s car from a snowbank or carrying a pregnant woman’s work bags to her car, I am driven by gentlemanly instinct. That is an instinct that must be imparted in young men today. It can be taught as an uncle, a mentor, a friend, or simply as a father. Chivalry. Valor. Courtesy. Politeness. Helpfulness. These are commodities that appear to be in scarce supply nowadays. If you are an owner of any or all, your wisdom is in high demand. Go ahead, there is a young man that needs you today.

Our Heritage – Railroaded Again

Tubman Sex TapeI wrote the following statement in a previous post, but in light of the latest Russell Simmons public relations debacle, it bears worth repeating: In matters of recognizing and appreciating the greatness of history, the specter of time hovers, always threatening to diminish the importance and seriousness of days forever removed. To be sure, history is a great educator; but if we allow the steady progression of time to dull its lessons, we will simply become students of profound ignorance. If you are not privy to what I am alluding to, well, Simmons launched a YouTube channel called All Def Digital. And on that channel, a vile parody was featured. Titled Harriet Tubman Sex Tape, it depicts a Mammy caricature in the role of Harriet Tubman seducing and sleeping with the plantation slave master, as another male slave secretly records the encounter from a nearby closet, all in an effort to blackmail her slave master into freeing slaves. Classy right? Public outrage followed. Cue fake apology by Simmons. Continue reading

Standard Recommendations – The Tie Clip – Apologies To Nick Sullivan

Lanvin Tie ClipNick Sullivan, Esquire’s resident fashion director, does not favor the ritual of affixing one’s necktie to one’s dress shirt utilizing the duties of the tie clip, or tie bar – whatever term you particularly fancy. I first learned this curious fact after watching a clip of Mr. Sullivan over at Mr Porter where they feature a video series titled The Way I Dress. During the brief clip, Sullivan explains his apparent dislike for the small accessory. And actually, it is not the dislike of tie clip itself, but the gentlemen that actually wear tie clips. Interesting. That sentiment was once again echoed in the September issue of Esquire in his advice section. Truthfully, his disdain for tie clips is never fully explained; aside from the reasoning that he just does not like them. Style is all about individuality, and a gentleman can maintain his sartorial preferences as he wishes. However, I cannot see tie clips as useless affectation because they actually serve a purpose. Sullivan thinks it looks too neat when the necktie is held strategically in place. What’s wrong with neat? Better than sloppy – right? Question: How many gentlemen actually blow their nose in handkerchief or pocket square? I would surmise not many, yet we wear them anyway because it affords a small, yet stylish detail to the overall ensemble. And so, in praise of the tie clip, we present 5 reasons why you should be wearing one. Continue reading

Gent Hints – Sport Coat Coordination

PS- Autumn 2012

Phineas Cole

To be sure, some gentlemen absolutely abhor the notion of wearing a suit, as they would sooner employ a sport coat as a viable alternative. So, when an occasion begs for a discreet level of business attire, said gentleman promptly retrieves his sport jacket of choice from the closet. Pretty simply – right? Well, not quite that simple. The sly substitution of a sport coat arrives with a curious dilemma of its own. Unlike the complete business suit, the sport coat quietly resides, draped around its wooden hanger without the devoted companionship of a matching trouser. Thus, the critical mission of expertly coordinating a pair of trousers becomes not as simple as previously imagined – that suit doesn’t look so terrible now. No worries, may we present to the audience, a quick and dirty guide to find the right pair of trousers for your sport coat. Continue reading

Brotherly Love – Nii Ayikwei Aryee – Adabraka Sartorialist

Nii 1From the streets of Adabraka in Accra, Ghana – some serious sartorial splendor. Boom!

http://adabraka-sartorialist.tumblr.com/

Don Lemon Logic & Sagging Pants

saggy-pantsSeriously, it was not my intent to provide commentary pertaining to Don Lemon’s logic and critique regarding societal ills afflicting the African-American community – honestly it wasn’t. However, the Internet meme that is Don Lemon Logic is compelling me to share a few thoughts. Specifically, I want to speak about the sartorial statement of sagging one’s trousers. So, let’s address this bit of business first: Don Lemon’s logic is flawed. Pulling one’s pants up to an acceptable, respectable height will not fund financially strapped schools in the inner city, lower the homicide and incarceration rate of young African-American males, or create meaningful employment in urban areas. Nevertheless, you know what other logic is flawed? It is the logic that passively defends the art of exposing one’s underwear in public. Continue reading

Coming Soon – Autumn 2013

Richard James Leaf Print PS

Mr Porter – Richard James

For many individuals, autumn recently arrived – albeit a tad prematurely, and provided a brief glimpse of what to expect late September and all of October. And what did that glimpse reveal? Automobile windows liberally covered by early morning dew. Nippy evenings that necessitated the need for an additional layer of clothing for comfort. And, we figured you have noticed, the days are steadily becoming shorter, with night arriving early, minute by minute. Soon enough, autumn will be upon us. So, what will the sartorial climate look like?  Unsurprisingly, fabrics will adopt a decidedly dark complexion, but don’t worry, tones won’t be exceedingly morose. All the bright hues and vibrant patterns of summer will step aside for conservative tones and sly, sophisticated designs. Clothing will become a touch heavier, but not burdensome. And a gentleman will have more accessories to deftly incorporate into his ensemble – without overdoing it. This season – less is definitely more. It will be the astute selection of a chosen accoutrement that will make the biggest visual impact. Sure, summer will definitely return, if not for a few weeks, to remind everyone that its time has not expired for the year 2013. Enjoy it. Because, as we move into the first half of August, we can be sure time is going to fly by. Get ready.

Heritage – Thurgood Marshall

thurgood-marshall

  • Born Thoroughgood Marshall on July 2, 1908 in Baltimore, Maryland
  • Graduated from Frederick Douglass High School in 1925
  • Earned Bachelor of Arts in Humanities, majoring in Literature and Philosophy from Lincoln University in 1930
  • Graduated magna cum laude, earning his degree in law, from Howard University School of Law in 1933
  • Worked as assistant special counsel at National Association for the Advancement of Colored People in Baltimore in 1936
  • Successfully argued first civil rights case, Murray v. Pearson, in 1936
  • Successfully argued first United States Supreme Court case, Chambers v. Florida, in 1940
  • Director of NAACP Legal Defense and Education Fund in 1940
  • Successfully argued Smith v. Allwright in 1944
  • Awarded Spingarn Medal in 1946
  • Successfully argued Shelley v. Kraemer in 1948
  • Successfully argued Sweatt v. Painter in 1950
  • Successfully argued McLaurin v. Oklahoma State Regents in 1950
  • Successfully argued Brown v. Board of Education of Topeka in 1954
  • Appointed to the United States Second Circuit Court of Appeals by President John F. Kennedy in 1961.
  • Appointed United States Solicitor General by President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965
  • First African-American appointed to Supreme Court in 1967
  • Retired from the Supreme Court in 1991
  • Received the Liberty Medal in 1992
  • Received Presidential Medal of Freedom, posthumously, from President Bill Clinton in 1993
  • Marshall died at the age of 84 years old on January 24, 1993

 

Style & Substance – Passagio Cravatte – Custom Neckties

Gianni CeruttiHave you ever wondered how a delicate piece of sumptuous fabric is transformed into an exquisite slice of luxury that is the custom-made necktie? Not really, but now your interest has been aroused? Well, be sure to keep a watchful eye for an upcoming conversation I had with founder of Passaggio Cravatte, Gianni Cerutti. Passaggio Cravatte is unique because they don’t stock ready-made product; everything is hand-made and individually conceived. Neckties. Pocket squares. Ascots. Bow ties. The choice is ultimately in your hands. Well, technically, your choice rests within Mr. Cerutti’s hands as he crafts your selection from scratch. Stay tuned.

http://www.passaggiocravatte.com/

Profile – Tracy Xavier – Modern Renaissance Man

Leather Brooch

Sure, the economy is still on a relatively slow mend, but the atmosphere is certainly inviting for bright, driven entrepreneurs to start a business and create a market for themselves. And one such market that is thriving is within the realm of fashion. More and more people are tapping into their creative genius, eliminating the middle man, and taking their product directly to the consumer. Aided by the expansive world of the Internet, small business owners are taking advantage of the renewed interest in men’s fashion. And they are offering incredibly stylish, seriously affordable merchandise for the discerning gentleman that yearns for sartorial refinement, but may not want to drop $200.00 on a pocket square or $300.00 on a tie bar. Recently, I have had the pleasure of speaking with one such small business, Modern Renaissance Man, about a wide array of gentlemanly accessories currently available on their Etsy website. Created by Tracy and Mike Xavier, accessories from Modern Renaissance Man offer an interesting spin on classic accoutrements. Here is how our conversation went.

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Gentlemen’s Review – Bic – Bic Flex 4 Perfect Razor

Bic Flex 4Today, we are going to talk about a subject that elicits feverish passion every time the subject is examined. If you reference the picture above, of course we are talking about shaving. Yes, this simple grooming ritual seems to fire up gentlemen across the nation when we broach the discussion here on the site. In one corner, we have gentlemen that prefer the ubiquitous safety razor. And in the opposite corner, we have gentlemen that prefer a classic straight razor. And in another corner, we have a contender that no one every speaks of – the disposable razor. Truthfully, I have never written about disposable razors because I never utilize them. The handling is clumsy. They are terribly stiff. And the blade is not comfortable. Nevertheless, I was extended the opportunity to trial the new Bic Flex 4 Perfect Razor. Ironically, the Flex 4 may be marketed as a disposable razor, but it didn’t “feel” like a disposable razor. Please read further to understand what I mean.
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Black Thought

Emmett Till and his mother, Mamie Bradley“Two months ago I had a nice apartment in Chicago. I had a good job, I had a son. When something happened to the Negroes in the South I said, “That’s their business, not mine.” Now I know how wrong I was. The murder of my son has shown me that what happens to any of us, anywhere in the world, had better be the business of us all.”

– Mamie Till-Mobley

To be absolutely certain; no race, ethnicity, class, or gender is immune from the grasp of random tragedy. To exhibit ambivalence and indifference is painfully irresponsible. Sadly, the world continues to expand by leaps and bounds, but our own desire for isolation has given rise to an apathetic, sometimes even reprobate, mentality that is methodically unraveling the fabric that makes us human. No particular demographic owns a patent on tragic misfortune. At any given moment, we can discover ourselves in calamitous circumstances that leaves us distraught, distressed, angry, bitter, and heartbroken. It is important that an individual is able to feel not only sympathy, but also empathy. If you don’t care – I suggest you start caring now. Because, in a world of indiscriminate catastrophe, you would want someone to care about you.