Black Thought

james baldwin 2“Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced.”

James Baldwin

The knowledgeable gentleman is reconciled with the reality that anything worth the attempt of transforming could ultimately result in failure. Nevertheless, the very real possibility of failure does not deter or dissuade him from focusing his efforts to bring about change. He understands that change is not fully realized when absent an active catalyst. Please note: Fruitful, bountiful harvests are not born to barren soil. Work must be done. And so, if a gentleman desires to see a difference, he must ultimately commit himself to making a difference. A gentleman must steel his resolve and confront what needs to be confronted, failure be damned. So, the question for you is: What do you want to see changed, and just exactly what are you doing about it?

The Standard #18

 

Jesse OwensFirmly standing upright under an unrelenting, blistering storm of vitriolic contempt and caustic distrust, the successful gentleman remains undeterred in his journey towards triumph. Triumph – born of an unwavering resolve and complete assurance in his abilities; this gentleman cannot be denied what he has tirelessly striven for. And despite ardent attempts to trivialize his work, undermine his legitimacy, or boldly question his intellect; ignorance and hatred will be trumped every time. Believe it. No amount of mockery can shake his confidence. He is resolute. He is intelligent. He is courageous. More importantly, he recognizes that there exists individuals consumed with hubris and guided by conceit, which ultimately hastens their downfall. So, he stays in his lane and does what he does best – win. Are you a winner?

Gentleman Essentials – Hook + Albert – Flower Lapel

Hook + Albert Flower Lapelhttp://www.hookandalbert.com/

Gentleman Essentials – Tod’s – Suede Driver

Tod's Driver 4http://www.tods.com/us/

The Standard #31

 

MountainIt is wise for a gentleman to avoid an ascension that strays him amongst mountains of hubris; an ascension that betrays his remembrance of the ever distant valleys beneath his feet. Gentlemen, be not thoughtlessly mistaken, your climb towards success does not preclude the possibility of an agonizing fall. Depending upon the heights that one rises, arrogance may silently corrupt your character, and thus the descent could be resolutely sharp, steep and abrupt. This is not say that a gentleman should not achieve or strive for the greatest heights of success or prosperity. To be certain, a gentleman can certainly ride amongst the highest clouds of accomplishment, and yet remain grounded in modesty and humility. It is the appreciation of the valleys that makes the view from above that much more beautiful. It is the appreciation of the valleys that assuage any fear of falling. Because, if a gentleman so finds himself in the midst of a certain plunge, his spirit is steeled with the knowledge that he will rise again. Conversely, a successful gentleman may never experience any affecting gravity upon his achievements. Nonetheless, the underlying message is steeped in consistency, never lose sight of your origins and appreciate the valleys of one’s life that have transformed into triumph. And if you are not there yet, don’t worry, you will be. See you at the top.

Gentlemen’s Review – Swiss Stays – Collar Stays

Swiss StaysFor the discerning gentleman that appreciates the unspoken sophistication that an unobtrusive accessory may grant; the patented adjustable collar stay from Swiss Stays is under TGS’s microscope today. Birthed from sartorial necessity by custom clothier and founder of Astor & Black, David Schottenstein, the adjustable collar stay was invented to mitigate any frustrations that may arise when trying to coordinate the correct collar stay with the correct shirt collar. Now, for the sake of definition, a collar stay is a small shirt accessory, fashioned in the shape of shirt collar tip, designed to slide into specifically cut pockets beneath the shirt collar. The purpose is to provide much-needed stability and weight to a shirt collar that can that may be prone to floppiness and slackness.

Now, a collar stay may arrive in the material form of brass, stainless steel, titanium, plastic, mother of pearl, horn, etc. Some shirts may already possess collar stays upon purchase – most likely of the plastic or brass variety. They are also designed with varying lengths for the differing collar styles that may be on the market. With Swiss Stays, the available materials for purchase are as follows: plastic (PVC), stainless steel, brass, and titanium. For review purposes, TGS was shipped both the PVC and titanium versions. Pertaining to length, the offerings from Swiss Stays have four adjustable positions for a gentleman’s preference as demonstrated below.

Swiss Stays 2

So, let’s jump into the dapper details of these unique collar stays. As mentioned above, the uniqueness of these collar stays reside in the function of adaptability. The titanium collar stays are decidedly sturdy and strong – almost to a fault. It is going to take a little finger strength to adjust your stays into the desired positions. I’ve found that the easiest method is to use your thumb to push apart the two moving parts, and then push them together simultaneously to move back into the starting position (visual #1). With the passage of time, perhaps the moving parts will loosen sufficiently for the various configurations. One thing is for sure, these collar stays won’t break anytime soon.

Now, the PVC collar stays were much more flexible than its titanium associate. It should be noted that although the material is plastic, it still feels stronger than the plastic stays one might find in a newly purchased shirt. This plastic version from Swiss Stays would probably suit the gentleman who isn’t particular about floppy collars, but may be intrigued about the possibility of keeping them in check.

Housed in a metal package that closely resembles a vintage Zippo lighter, three pairs of any collar stay of choice sit neatly arranged in two rows of three. Each version of collar stay must be returned to its original folded position to be placed back into its case. I should also add – as a gentleman who has misplaced a few collar stays over time – the metal storing case is a nice touch. It allows a gentleman to smartly keep track of his stays.

Swiss Stays 3And now – pricing: Available in four different materials and price points (PVC $8; Stainless Steel $20; Brass $30; and Titanium $50), they come in packs of six and fit all 24 different styles of shirt collars on the market. Also available, a sterling silver leather gift set ($150). Depending on your sartorial lifestyle, a cool set of these unique collar stays could be the solution you have desired to tame that undesirable case of runaway collar. If you’re already an owner of a few collar stays, this offering from Swiss Stays may be worth your attention. If not, they may afford a fresh approach to how you handle your shirt collar. Stay stylish gentlemen.

The Standard #3

harlemThe knowledgeable gentleman comprehends that his image does not begin with how society views him. Rather, the gentleman’s image begins with how he sees himself. He alone determines and dictates the manner in which he is presented to the world. When he gazes into the mirror, the reflection of greatness should readily greet him. It does not begin with the clothing he chooses to attire himself in, nor the vehicle he selects to navigate city streets. Not the place of employment where he makes a living. Not the amount of money presently residing in his bank account. Why? Well, because character starts with his self-worth. His esteem is not erected upon a mountain of biodegradable materialism – subject to decay and waste. No, the gentleman’s image is based on gentlemanly fundamentals that are concrete and certain. Virtue. Honor. Principle. Forthrightness. The Gentlemen’s Standard.

Black Thought

King_Jr_Martin_Luther_093.jpg

“There comes a time when one must take a position that is neither safe, nor politic, nor popular, but he must take it because conscience tells him it is right.”

Martin Luther King, Jr.

Heritage – James Howard Meredith

James Meredith

  • James Howard Meredith was born on June 25, 1933 in Kosciusko, Mississippi.
  • Meredith is a former serviceman in the United States Air Force serving from 1951 to 1960.
  • He attended Jackson State University from 1960 to 1961.
  • On October 1, 1962; James Howard Meredith became the first African-American admitted to the University of Mississippi. Meredith was admitted after previously being denied admission three times. 
  •  Meredith went on to graduate with a degree in political science in 1963.
  • From 1964 to 1965, Meredith attended the University of Ibadan in Nigeria and earned a postgraduate degree in economics.
  • He published his memoir, Three Years in Mississippi, in 1966.
  • To encourage voter registration amongst African-Americans, Meredith organized a civil rights march, Meredith March Against Fear, extending from Memphis, Tennessee to Jackson, Mississippi during which he was shot and wounded by a sniper on June 6, 1966.
  • Initiated his political career as a Republican, unsuccessfully running against Adam Clayton Powell, Jr.
  • Meredith also received his law degree from Columbia University in 1968.
  • Amidst controversy, from 1989 to 1991, he became an adviser to southern conservative United States Senator Jesse Helms.
  • Currently residing in Jackson, Mississippi at the age of 80.

 

Gentlemen’s Review – Armstrong & Wilson – Pocket Squares

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The gentleman’s pocket square: A discreet piece of sophistication whose primary objective is to effortlessly elevate the overall sharpness of a suit. Now, for seemingly decades, the pocket square was relegated to bland neutrality – no offense to the crisp, clean elegance of the gentleman’s white handkerchief. However, recent developments on the sartorial front has emancipated the classic accessory from the confines expected stodginess and monotony. Widely and roundly believed to be on the cusp antiquation, the contemporary pocket square has emerged reinvigorated, offering a countless amount of variety and selection. And perhaps none are as unique as the pocket squares available from Armstrong and Wilson.

Founded in 2009 by Ontario Armstrong and Clifton Wilson – each a finalist in Esquire’s Best Dressed Real Man in America – Armstrong and Wilson has sought to reinvent tradition surrounding the pocket square, and they are more than succeeding. With an astute attention to detail; the duo infused their reinterpretation with an exciting variety of color and pattern, blessed the inventory with exquisite material, and added a detail that has become their signature – a button. And now, with a surging popularity, it is not uncommon to spot their product being worn by the likes of Chris Bosh, Mos Def, Michael A. Smith, and Lebron James.

Personally, I first noticed these fashionable pocket squares a few years ago, but the pricing precluded my inclusion with the aforementioned players of the Miami Heat roster. Stunning visuals aside, dropping $55 to $85 on a single pocket square just wasn’t in my budget at the time. However, with a few job advancements and a purchase of a high quality camera, the plunge was ready to be made. So, here we are today, ready to offer an honest evaluation of the merchandise for the audience. So, let’s dive right in and break it all down for you.

Brotherly Love – Chiwetel Ejiofor – Actor, Director, Writer

chiwetel ejiofor GQhttp://www.gq.com/moty/2013/chiwetel-ejiofor-men-of-the-year-powerhouse

Education – By Any Means Necessary

Malcolm X WindowTruth: Not every controversy – most likely contrived and manufactured – should be dignified with a response. However, allow me to present another truth; ignorance cannot be allowed to injuriously metastasize the young minds of this generation or future generations. Sure, there are far more pressing issues at present that afflict the African-American community, but surely one can grant momentary pause to address obvious stupidity. Because, if left unchecked, the reverence and appreciation that African-American heritage should elicit will slowly dissipate with each passing generation. That cannot be allowed to come to pass. And with that, the subject matter today is hip hop artist Nicki Minaj, and the dubious decision to promote her new single using the image of Malcolm X (pictured above) with profanity and the word n*gga splayed across the top.

Now, was there a social or political point to made by utilizing the 1964 photograph of Malcolm X peering out his window with a M1 carbine rifle in hand? The answer, not surprisingly, is no. Minaj states that her new single, Looking A** N*gga, was written to empower women. Wait…what? Okay, before we delve into that bit of insanity, here is an explanation from Minaj as she states, “It was almost parallel in my opinion because he has this big gun ready to shoot at a lookin’ (expletive) bleep, and that’s how I looked at it,’ she said. ‘I looked at it as this is one of the most memorable people in our history, in black history, who voiced his opinion no matter what, and I understand how my intent was overlooked and I definitely didn’t want to offend his family or his legacy.” Again, wait…what?

Malcolm X and his family lived under the heavy threat of death and assassination during the better part of his latter years, and somehow Nicki Minaj thinks her tribulations with men are somehow equivalent. For the record, the M1 that Malcolm X was holding was not for show. It was not some sort of symbol. He had it in tow to literally protect himself and his family. Look, in the past year or so, Emmett Till was name-dropped in a vulgar lyric by Lil Wayne. Martin Luther King, Jr.’s image was re-purposed on fliers to promote twerk contests for his birthday. And we all remember Russell Simmons and the sex tape parody featuring Harriett Tubman. I remember a time when hip hop championed and celebrated our history. Question: When did some black folks get so damn disrespectful of our past?

And so, this is the problem with fostering an indifference to an overwhelming and spreading ignorance of our history. However, let me digress for a moment. A few weeks ago, my ear happened to catch D.L. Hughley lamenting the fact that Black History Month was the shortest month of the year and schools only teach the same old, same old – such as the history of George Washington Carver. Now, Hughley is a comedian, and given the fact that I was channel surfing, I am not sure if he was joking or serious. But, I can address his argument with this: Teach your own black history – 365 days out of the year. You have the power to do so. With as much information that is available today, it is really sad that we continuously look to others outside the black community to educate us on our history. People…you have a platform…use it!

Facebook. Twitter. Start a blog, hell, it’s free! Start your own platform to educate and spread our rich black history. Many folk use vast Internet space for bulls**t, yes, I said it – bulls**t. We cannot passively stand by as artists such as Nicki Minaj (and many more) reinterpret and redefine history to conveniently fit into their reprobate world. Enough with the stupidity. Our heritage is being manipulated and mocked for monetary gain, and it is time people are held accountable. The temerity, presumption, and ignorance of some individuals today is frightening. But the only way to combat the lack of knowledge is the infusion of knowledge. Crack open a book. Find something useful on Internet. Watch something thought-provoking. Ignorance is not bliss – learning is.

Standard Recommendations – Suede Wingtip

Grenson Suede Wingtips

Grenson

Currently at this juncture in sartorial history, it can be wholly agreed upon that a gentleman is devoid any excuses for not dressing well, or at least attempting to dress well. Of course, this is stated with the understanding that said gentleman has the financial means to do so. If the means are indeed present, a gentleman can be free to explore the myriad of choices at his disposal. True, the gluttony of options can be overwhelming at first take, but once the terrain is dutifully studied, the navigation can be exciting and refreshing. And so today, we arrive at my latest style endorsement – the impeccable suede wingtip. Chances are you have already bolstered your shoe rotation with a classic wingtip. And chances are you possess a few suede options in that rotation as well. So why not reap the benefits of both worlds?

An attractive amalgam of sophistication and elegance; a well-appointed suede wingtip is duly equipped for both casual and business occasions. A smooth pair will properly add an unexpected dose of attitude to a suit, and they will also hold their own when pitted against a pair of sturdy, tailored denim. Owning footwear that can serve many purposes definitely a bonus. You might also recognize the pair pictured above is heather grey. Well, as a side-note, grey is trending for men’s footwear this spring. However, let’s not get ahead of ourselves, brown variations will do just fine. Unless, however, you have settled into the terrain and are ready to take the plunge in the grey area. Stay stylish gentlemen.

Brotherly Love – Common – Hip Hop Artist, Actor, Author

Common B&Whttp://www.thinkcommon.com/

Heritage – Paul Robeson

paul-robeson

  • Paul Leroy Robeson was born April 9th, 1898 in Princeton, New Jersey
  • Singer, actor, social activist, lawyer
  • Acclaimed international performer
  • Black nationalist
  • Rutgers University, Phi Beta Kappa, valedictorian 1915-19
  • First Team football All-American Rutgers University 1917-18
  • Earned 15 letters in 4 varsity sports
  • Member of Alpha Phi Alpha fraternity
  • Bachelor of Laws from Columbia University in 1922
  • Film – Body & Soul – 1925
  • Film – The Emperor Jones – 1933
  • Musical – Showboat – 1936
  • Film – Song of Freedom – 1936
  • Play – Othello – 1943
  • NAACP Spingarn Medal – 1945
  • Published biography, Here I Stand in 1958
  • Died at the age of 77 on January 23rd, 1976

Added reading: http://www.pbs.org/wnet/americanmasters/episodes/paul-robeson/about-the-actor/66/